Free Crochet Pattern: Ribbed Women's Beanie

I've had many requests for additional sizes of my Ribbed Toddler Hat so here is the first in line and coming shortly will be the Men's & Children's sizes (I'll link them when available).

Thanks for stopping by! 

-Jenni

Size: Women's, 21-22" head circumference

Supplies:
Worsted Weight Yarn, approx. 175-200 yd.
Size I (5.5mm) Hook
Tapestry Needle
Scissors
Optional: Pom-Pom
                or learn how to make your own here: How to make faux fur pom-poms

Abbreviations (US terms):
Ch - Chain
Dc - Double Crochet
Fpdc - Front Post Double Crochet
Sc - Single Crochet
Sl st - Slip Stitch

Notes:
-Ch 2's count as a dc.
-Joins are made with a sl st to the first dc made, not the ch 2.
-This pattern uses a magic circle, if you don't know how to make one you can learn with this quick video tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=64O9WVJucFA

Gauge: 4 dc = 1".

Row 1: Magic Circle, ch 2 (counts as a dc throughout), 11 dc in circle. Pull circle tight and join. (12)
Row 2: Ch 2, fpdc around same (this fpdc is to be worked around the ch 2 from the previous row). *Dc in next and fpdc around same.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (24)
Row 3: Ch 2, dc in same, fpdc around next. *2 dc in next, fpdc around next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (36)
Row 4: Ch 2, 2 dc in same, fpdc around next. *Dc in next, 2 dc in next, fpdc around next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (48)
Row 5: Ch 2, dc in same, fpdc around next, *2 dc in next, fpdc around next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (72)
Row 6-21: Ch 2, dc in same, fpdc around next. *Dc in 2, fpdc around next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (72)
Row 22-23: Ch 1 (does not count as sc), sc in same and in each around. Join. (71)

Fasten off, sew in ends and attach your pom-pom.

Free Crochet Pattern: Pizza Slice & Toppings

(Shown in Caron One Pound Sunflower & Lace, Red Heart Super Saver Cherry Red, Hunter Green, Black & White)

If you follow my Instagram you probably recently saw my post about all the orders I've been filling for my youngest son, I've been having so much fun crocheting up his ideas! Today I am going to share a very easy pattern for a slice of pizza and toppings.

If you are making this pizza slice for a baby or young toddler, I suggest sewing the toppings on to the cheese portion before sewing the cheese down to the bottom crust. My toppings are not sewn down because my son is 5 and likes to switch out the toppings but the pieces are small for a really young one to be playing with.

For my example I used a couple different kinds of worsted weight yarn, I liked Caron One Pound best for this project but feel free to use your own favorite! Enjoy and if you have any questions feel free to ask.

Thanks for stopping by!

-Jenni

Skill Level: Easy

Finished Size: 9" x 5"
    -If you would like a smaller pizza slice consider using a smaller hook size.

Supplies:
Size J (6.0 mm) Crochet Hook
Worsted Weight Yarn in Tan, Yellow, Red, Green, White & Black
Tapestry needle
Scissors
Stitch Marker

Abbreviations (US Terms):
Ch - Chain
FLO- Front Loop Only
Hdc - Half Double Crochet
Hdc2tog
Sc - Single Crochet
Sk - Skip
Sl st - Slip Stitch
Sp - Space

Important Notes:
-Hdc2tog counts as one hdc.
-All joins are made with a sl st.
-This pattern calls for use of the magic circle (aka magic ring), if you do not know how to make a magic circle you can learn here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=64O9WVJucFA

Pizza

Starting with Tan:

Row 1: Ch 17, hdc in 2nd ch from hook & in each across. (16 hdc)

Row 2-5: Ch 1, turn. Hdc in each across. Ch 1. (16 hdc)

Now, fold you piece in half lengthwise, holding together the edges of row 1 & 5. Turn so you are working in the correct direction, as shown below in the 2nd photo.

(Click photos to enlarge)

Row 6: Sc in each across, working through both sets of loops. Place a stitch marker in the
FLO of the last sc you made.

Row 7: Ch 1, turn. In FLO: Hdc in each across. (16 hdc)

Row 8: Ch 1, turn. Hdc2tog, hdc in 12, hdc2tog. (14 hdc)

Row 9-10: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each across. (14 hdc)

Row 11: Ch 1, turn. Hdc2tog, hdc in 10, hdc2tog. (12 hdc)

Row 12-13: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each across. (12 hdc)

Row 14: Ch 1, turn. Hdc2tog, hdc in 8, hdc2tog. (10 hdc)

Row 15-16: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each across. (10 hdc)

Row 17: Ch 1, turn. Hdc2tog, hdc in 6, hdc2tog. (8 hdc)

Row 18-19: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each across. (8 hdc)

Row 20: Ch 1, turn. Hdc2tog, hdc in 4, hdc2tog. (6 hdc)

Row 21-22: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each across. (6 hdc)

Row 23: Ch 1, turn. Hdc2tog, hdc in 2, hdc2tog. (4 hdc)

Row 24-25: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each across. (4 hdc)

Row 26: Ch 1, turn. Hdc2tog, hdc2tog. (2 hdc)
Row 27: Ch 1, turn. Hdc2tog. (1 hdc)

Fasten off.

Switch to Yellow yarn.

Leave an extra long end here in the beginning before you join, you will use this long end to sew the cheese down to the crust later. 

With the point pointing towards you, join yellow yarn with a sl st in the space previously indicated to place a stitch marker. You can remove the stitch marker. 

 

Row 1: Ch 1, hdc in each across. (16 hdc)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Hdc2tog, hdc in 12, hdc2tog. (14 hdc)

Row 3-4: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each across. (14 hdc)

Row 5: Ch 1, turn. Hdc2tog, hdc in 10, hdc2tog. (12 hdc)

Row 6-7: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each across. (12 hdc)

Row 8: Ch 1, turn. Hdc2tog, hdc in 8, hdc2tog. (10 hdc)

Row 9-10: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each across. (10 hdc)

Row 11: Ch 1, turn. Hdc2tog, hdc in 6, hdc2tog. (8 hdc)

Row 12-13: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each across. (8 hdc)

Row 14: Ch 1, turn. Hdc2tog, hdc in 4, hdc2tog. (6 hdc)

Row 15-16: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each across. (6 hdc)

Row 17: Ch 1, turn. Hdc2tog, hdc in 2, hdc2tog. (4 hdc)

Row 18-19: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each across. (4 hdc)

Row 20: Ch 1, turn. Hdc2tog, hdc2tog. (2 hdc)
Row 21: Ch 1, hdc2tog. (1 hdc)

Fasten off.

Quick note: Remember if you are making this for a young child, you should sew your toppings on to the cheese before moving on.

Sew in your ends, using the extra long end to sew around the edge of the cheese.

Pepperoni

With Red:

Row 1: Magic circle, 6 sc in circle. Join. (6 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each around. Join. (12 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, *sc, 2 sc in next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (18 sc)
Fasten off and sew in ends.


Mushroom

With White:

Row 1: Ch 7, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in 4, 2 sc in last. Ch 1. (6 sc)

Now, rotate your piece to the right so you can work on the other side of the foundation chain.

Row 2: Sl st in 2, [Sl st, ch 2, dc] all in the next sp. [Dc, ch 2, sl st] all in the next sp. Sl st in last 2.
Fasten off and sew in ends.


Black Olives

With Black:

Row 1: Ch 4, join with a sl st to form a circle. 8 sc in circle. Join. (8 sc)
Fasten off.


Green Peppers

With Green:

Row 1: Ch 7, hdc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next. Sc in 3, sl st in last.
Fasten off.

____________________________________________________

If you liked this free pattern, you might enjoy this one as well!

BOLOGNA SANDWICH

Free Crochet Pattern: Easy Peasy Chunky Infinity Scarf

(Shown in Bernat Softee Chunky Hot Pink)

This is probably the easiest pattern I have on the blog but I love this scarf! It works up quick and is a great gift idea if you are in a hurry!

Thanks so much for stopping by!

Jenni

This pattern now has a video, you can watch it below or check it out on YouTube here: https://youtu.be/ZZXbj65U3Eo 

Skill Level: Beginner

Size: Teen, Adult

Supplies:
Bernat Softee Chunky Yarn (or your choice of super bulky 6), approx. 325 yards
Size P (11.50 mm) Crochet Hook
Tapestry Needle
Scissors

Stitch Abbreviations (US Terms):
Ch - Chain
Dc - Double Crochet
Ss - Slip Stitch

St - Stitch

Gauge: 5 dc across = 3 inches

Notes:
-Ch 1 does not count as dc.
-Joins are made with ss to the first dc, do not join to the ch 1.

Row 1: Ch 110, join with ss to the first ch to form a large circle. Try to keep the chain from twisting. Ch 1, dc in each ch around. Join. (110 dc)
Row 2-10: Ch 1, dc each st around. Join. (110 dc)
Fasten off and sew in ends.

All done, easy peasy-right? I made up a bunch of them in lots of the pretty Bernat Colors!

Free Crochet Amigurumi Pattern: The Skinny Frog

(Shown in Vanna's Choice Kelly Green, White & Denim)

Recently, I've found that I enjoy crocheting toys or amigurumi very much! I wanted to try my hand at a simple frog pattern and here's the final result! The pieces are simple to crochet, very easy to put together and works up fairly quick. I suggest using the same brand yarn for the entire project, whatever your favorite is.

Below is the first frog I made, my youngest son just loved him! When he first saw him he laughed and said, "I really, really like him.....he's so silly...and cute...and funny! ..." He went on about him for a while. As you can see, he has shorter arms than the final frog above. You can choose to stop where you please for the arms but the pattern is written for the longer arms.

(Shown in Vanna's Choice Radiant Lime)

While I was snapping the photo above my little guy waited patiently beside me then stuck his head in there too. I adore this picture and I'm so glad he still loves Mom's crochet!

Skill Level: Easy

Size:13.5" in length

Supplies:
Worsted Weight Yarn
     green (about 80-90 yd.), black, white & choice for shorts or skirt
Size G (4.0 mm) Crochet Hook
Size H (5.0 mm) Crochet Hook
2, 9 mm safety eyes or black buttons
Tapestry Needle
Scissors
Stitch Marker
Poly-fil

Abbreviations (US Terms):
Ch - Chain
Dc - Double Crochet
Hdc - Half Double Crochet
Sc - Single Crochet
Sc2tog - Single Crochet 2 Together
Sl st - Slip Stitch
Sp - Space

Notes:
-Sc2tog counts as sc.
-Joins are made with sl st.
-This pattern calls for use of the magic circle (aka magic ring), if you do not know how to make a magic circle you can learn here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=64O9WVJucFA

Legs & Arms
The legs and arms of the frog are worked in the round after the 2nd row. You can easily make the legs/arms longer or shorter if you would like.

With Size G hook & green yarn:
(Make 2 arms, 2 legs)

Row 1: Magic circle, ch 1, 6 sc in circle. Join. (6 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in same, sc in 2, 2 sc in next, sc in last 2. Do not join. (8 sc)

After row 2 you should sew in your beginning end.

Row 3: Sc in first and in each around. Instead of joining to the first sc, sc into it and you are now working in the round.

For the legs: Continue to repeat row 3 until you reach 32 rows.

For the arms: Continue to repeat row 3 for 25 rows.

Work a sl st in the last space of your last row, then fasten off.

Do not stuff.

When you are finished making both arms and legs continue on and make the body.

Body
The body of the frog is joined at the end of each row but you could also work the body in the round if you like. To work the body in the round do not join at the end of row 3, instead sc directly into the next space and keep going around and around until you reach 32 rows.

With size G hook & green yarn:
Row 1: Ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in the next 4, work 3 sc in last. Rotate piece to the right so you can work on opposite side of foundation ch. Sc in next 4, work 2 sc in last sp. Join to first sc. (14 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in first, sc in 5, 2 sc in next, 2 sc in next. Sc in 5, 2 sc in last sp. Join. (18 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, 2 sc in first, sc in 7, 2 sc in next, 2 sc in next. Sc in 7, 2 sc in last sp. Join. (22 sc)
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in first 3, 2 sc in next, sc in 3. 2 sc in next, sc in 6, 2 sc in next. Sc in 3, 2 sc in next, sc in last 3. Join. (26 sc)
Row 5: Ch 1, sc in first 6. 2 sc in next, sc in 12, 2 sc in next, sc in last 6. Join. (28 sc)
Row 6-32: Ch 1, sc in each around. Join. (28 sc)
Fasten off after row 32 leaving a long end to sew this opening shut.

You can now sew the legs & arms onto the body. The legs should be sewn to row 1, leaving a small space between the legs and the arms should be sewn to about row 24.

Next embroider on a smile using a tapestry needle and black yarn. You can now stuff with poly-fil and sew the opening shut. Continue on below with the eyes.

Eyes
(make 2)

With size G hook & white yarn:
Row 1: Magic circle, ch 1, 6 sc in circle. Join. (6 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each around. Join. (12 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, 2 sc in first, sc in next. *2 sc in next, sc in next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (18 sc)

Now would be the best time to place a safety eye in the center of the beginning magic circle. After placed, sew in this end.

Row 4-6: Ch 1, sc in each around. Join. (18 sc)
Row 7: Ch 1, sc in first, sc2tog. *Sc in next, sc2tog.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (12 sc)

You should now stuff your eye with poly-fil.

Row 8: Ch 1, *sc2tog.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (6 sc)
Fasten off, sew hole shut and sew in end.

Eye Lids
(make 2)

With size G hook & green yarn:
Row 1: Magic circle, ch 1, 7 sc in circle. Join. Pull circle tight and sew in end. (7 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each around. Join. (14 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, 2 sc in first, sc in next. *2 sc in next, sc in next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (21 sc)
Row 4-5: Ch 1, sc in each around. Join. (21 sc)
Row 6: Ch 1, sc in first, sc2tog, sc in 8, sc2tog, sc in 8. Join. (19 sc)
Row 7: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next and in each around. Join. (18 sc)
Row 8: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next and in each around. Before joining, slip your finished eye inside the eye lid. Join. (17 sc)
Fasten off and sew lid onto eye to make sure it's secure. Sew in end.

The last step in completing your frog is to sew his eyes on, make sure you also sew the two eyes to one another.

Shorts

With size H hook & color of choice yarn:
Row 1: Ch 26, join to first ch. Ch 1, sc in each around. Join. (26 sc)
Row 2-8: Ch 1, sc in each around. Join. (26 sc)
Row 9: Sc in first 13. Place a stitch marker in the next sp. Join to the first sc, leaving remaining sp un-worked. (13 sc)
Row 10-14: Ch 1, sc in each around. Join. (13 sc)
Fasten off after row 14.

You now have one side of the shorts completed.

Next, join yarn with a sl st to the sp previously indicated to place a stitch marker in. You may now remove the stitch marker.

Row 1-6: Ch 1, sc in each around. Join. (13 sc)
Fasten off after row 6 and sew in your ends.

Skirt

With size H hook & color of choice yarn:

Row 1: Ch 26, join to first ch. Ch 1, sc in each around. Join. (26 sc)
Row 2-8: Ch 1, sc in each around. Join. (26 sc)
Row 9: Ch 2, 3 dc in each around. Join. (78 dc)
Row 10: Ch 1, 2 hdc in each around. Join. (156 hdc)
Fasten off and sew in ends.

Small Bow

With size H hook & color of choice yarn:

Row 1: Ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across. Ch 1, turn. (6 sc)
Row 2: Sc in each across. Ch 1, turn. (6 sc)
Row 3: Sc in each across.
Fasten off and sew in ends.

Using a separate piece of yarn, no longer than 12", tie a knot around the center of the piece you just made. Wrap one end around a couple times, knot the two ends together then use them to also secure the bow to the top of the frog.

Sew in any remaining ends.

Free Crochet Pattern: Youth Size Crochet Cupcake Hat

(Shown in Red Heart With Love Bubble Gum, Tan & Berry Red)

Skill Level: Easy/Intermediate

Size: Youth, 4-9 years, 20-21" head circumference

Supplies:

Red Heart With Love, worsted weight yarn in choice colors

Size H (5.0mm) Crochet Hook

Size I (5.5mm) Crochet Hook

Tapestry needle

Scissors

Abbreviations (US Terms):

BLO - Back Loop Only

Ch - Chain

Dc - Double Crochet

FLO - Front Loop Only

Fpdc - Front Post Double Crochet

Sc - Single Crochet

Sk - Skip

Sl St - Slip Stitch
Tr - Treble Crochet

Notes:

-Joins are made with sl st.

-Joins should be made to the first dc, not the ch 2.

-Ch 2's do not count as a dc.

-Gauge: 4 dc & 2 rows = 1"

Hat

With size I hook & frosting color:

Row 1: Magic Circle, ch 2, 11 dc in circle. Join. (11 dc)

Row 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in same and in each around. Join. (22 dc)

Row 3: Ch 2, 2 dc in same, dc in next. *2 dc in next, dc in next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (33 dc)

Row 4: Ch 2, 2 dc in same, dc in next 2. *2 dc in next, dc in next 2.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (44 dc)

Row 5: Ch 2, 2 dc in same, dc in next 3. *2 dc in next, dc in next 3.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (55 dc)

Row 6: Ch 2, 2 dc in same, dc in next 4. *2 dc in next, dc in next 4.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (66 dc)

Your circle should measure about 6" across the center.

Row 7-11: Ch 2, dc in same and in each around. Join. (66 dc)

Row 12: IN FLO: *Sk 2, in next: [dc, 4 tr, dc], sk 1, sl st in 2.* Repeat *to* around. Do not fasten off, instead pull up a loop and leave the yarn attached. Remove your hook. We will come back to this after finishing the cupcake portion of the hat.

-The next row is worked in the un-worked back loops from the previous row, hold down the shells while working around. Be sure to count your stitches at the end of the next row and be sure you have 66 dc.

Using size I hook & cupcake color:

Row 13: IN BLO: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next and in each around. Join to 3rd chain. (66 dc)
Row 14-18: Ch 3 (counts as dc), fpdc around next. *Dc in next, fpdc around next* Repeat *to* around. Join to 3rd chain.

-Work the next row loosely.

Row 19: Ch 1, turn, sl st in next and in each around. Join, fasten off and sew in ends.

Now using your frosting color again: Insert your hook into the loop you left loose earlier, *Sl st, ch 1* around the hat repeating from *to* just above the shells you created, this will help the shells to lay nicely. Fasten off and sew in ends.

Cherry
Using size H hook & cherry color:

Row 1: Magic circle, ch 1, 6 sc in circle. Pull magic circle tight, join. (6 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each around. Join. (12 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in same, 2 sc in next. *Sc in next, 2 sc in next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (18 sc)
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in each around. Join. (18 sc)
Row 5: Ch 1, sc in same, sc2tog. *sc in next, sc2tog.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (12 sc)
Row 6: Ch 1, sc in same, sc2tog. *sc in next, sc2tog.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (8 sc)
You should now fill your cherry with poly-fil or small ends of yarn work like a charm too!
Row 7: Ch 1, sc2tog 4 times. Join.
Fasten off leaving long enough end to sew onto top of hat.
If needed, sew bottom of cherry closed. Sew on to hat and either sew in the end or pull it through the top of the cherry to make a stem. Tie a knot in the stem as close to the top of the cherry as possible so it will stay in place.

Optional: You can now add sprinkles to the top of the hat by tying on yarn pieces in multiple colors or leave it as is. I've also created the same hat using Red Heart Super Saver Coffee Fleck, this fun yarn makes sprinkles easy!

Free Crochet Pattern: Chicken Dish Rag or Pot Holder

This cute chicken can be made as a dish rag or a pot holder. The pattern is written for the dish rag option but here’s what I do to use it as a pot holder: First I crochet two complete chicken body/heads then I sew them together around the edges. After they are sewn together move on to the wattle, feathers, comb and beak working your stitches through all four loops of both bodies. 

If you have any questions feel free to ask, 
thanks so much for stopping by!
-Jenni

Skill Level: Easy

Size: 8” x 10”

Supplies:

Size H (5.0mm) Crochet Hook
Size I (5.5mm) Crochet Hook
100% Cotton Worsted Weight Yarn, approx. 150 yds.
          Example Shows: Lily Sugar n Cream Black
                                      Lily Sugar n Cream White
                                      Bernat Handicrafter Country Red
                                      Bernat Handicrafter Pale Yellow
Tapestry Needle
Scissors

Stitch Abbreviations (US Terms):

Ch – Chain
Hdc – Half Double Crochet
Dc – Double Crochet
Sc – Single Crochet
Sk – Skip
Sl st – Slip Stitch
Tr – Treble Crochet

Important Notes:
-It’s important that you use 100% cotton yarn if you are planning to use this to set hot pans on, acrylic will melt if you set a hot pan on it.
-Joins are made with sl st.
-Ch 1’s & 2’s do NOT count as a stitch and are not counted in the end of row stitch count.
-Join to the first stitch in the row, NOT the beginning chain.
-Stitches listed between these brackets: [ ] should all be worked in to the same space.

Body & Head

With Size I Hook

Row 1: Magic circle, ch 1, 7 hdc in circle. Join. (7 hdc)

Row 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in same and in each around. Join. (14 dc)
Row 3: Ch 2, 2 dc in same and in each around. Join.  (28 dc)
Row 4: Ch 2, 2 dc in same, dc in next. *2 dc in next, dc in next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (42 dc)
Row 5: Ch 2, 2 dc in same, dc in next 2. *2 dc in next, dc in next 2.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (56 dc)
Row 6: Ch 2, 2 dc in same, dc in next 3. *2 dc in next, dc in next 3.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (70 dc)
Row 7: Ch 1, 2 hdc in same, hdc in next 4. *2 hdc in next, hdc in next 4.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (84 hdc)

Row 8: Ch 1, sc in same, skip 2, in next stitch: [3 dc, 2 tr, 3 dc], Skip 2, sl st in next. Ch 1, turn.

Row 9: Sc in same, hdc in 3, 2 hdc in next 3, hdc in 2, sc in last. Ch 1, turn.
Row 10: Do not work in same, sc in next, hdc in 3, 2 hdc in next 3, hdc in 2, sc in next 2, sl st in last, sl st into next open stitch on the body. Fasten off and sew in ends.

The side currently facing you is the RS (right side), all the remaining details should be added when RS is facing you.

At this point if you have decided you would like your pot holder to be double thick and you have made 2 bodies, sew them together just below the loops. You will still need to work along the edges of the body to add the remaining details. When you move on make sure you are working through the loops on both bodies.

Wattle

With Size H Hook & Red Yarn:

Join with a sl st in the same space as you just fastened off for the body/head.

Row 1: Ch 1, 2 hdc in next, hdc in next. Ch 1, turn.
Row 2: Hdc in same, sl st in 2. Fasten off, knot these two ends together then sew them in.

Feathers

With Size H Hook

Note: If you do not want a loop for hanging, fasten off before ch 10 at the very end of row.

Skip 3 spaces from where you fastened off for the wattle and join with a sl st in the next space (leave 3 spaces unworked).The feathers will be worked over the next 71 spaces. Double check count before starting, if you missed a stitch somewhere and only have 70 (for example) you may need to skip only 2 spaces. It’s always good to double check before starting.

Ch 1, *sk 1, 5 dc in next, sk 2, sc in next* repeat *to* 12 more times for (13 feathers made). Sk 1, 5 dc in next, sk 2, sl st in last, ch 10 and sl st in same space. 
Fasten off and sew in ends.

Comb

With Size H Hook & Red Yarn

Join with a sl st on top of the head in the space all the way to the right.

*Ch 2, dc in same, in next space: [dc, ch 2, sl st into same], sl st in next.* Repeat *to* 3 more times (4 made). Fasten off and sew in ends.

Beak

With Size H Hook

With yellow join with a sl st in the 5^th stitch from where you just fastened off with red for the comb. [Ch 2, dc], fasten off and sew in ends.

Optional Eye

With tapestry needle, stitch on a little eye above the beak. I usually leave this off of the pot holders I make that are only one layer because I don’t like that the end can’t be hidden easily. Maybe a small wooden button would work well, a plastic button may melt if a very hot pan is placed on the pot holder.

Free Crochet Pattern: Quick & Easy Chunky Scarf, Toddler, Youth, Women's & Men's Sizes

I recently needed a scarf in a pinch for my 9 year old son who had plans for sledding that same day, so I grabbed some chunky yarn and worked up a quick & easy scarf. I’ve written it up in 4 sizes: Toddler, Youth, Women’s & Men’s. The pattern calls for Bernat Softee Chunky yarn (shown below pattern) but you may also hold two strands of your favorite worsted weight yarn together (shown above) and get the same results.

Thanks so much for stopping by!
-Jenni

Difficulty Level: Easy

Sizes: Toddler, Youth, Women’s, Men’s

           (Additional size info. included below within each pattern)

Supplies:

Size N (9.00mm) Crochet Hook

BernatSoftee Chunky (Bulky 6) Yarn, 200-275 yards depending on size.
Tapestry Needle
Scissors

Stitch Abbreviations (US Terms):
BLO - Back Loop Only
Ch - Chain
Dc - Double Crochet

Toddler Size:

(approx. 200 yards)
Finished measurement: 48” x 5”
Row 1: Ch 125, dc in 3^rd ch from hook and in each across.
Rows 2-6: In BLO: Ch 1, turn, dc in same and in each across.
Fasten off and sew in ends.

Youth Size:

(approx. 225 yards)
Finished measurement: 58” x 5”
Row 1: Ch 150, dc in 3^rd ch from hook and in each across.
Rows 2-6: In BLO: Ch 1, turn, dc in same and in each across.
Fasten off and sew in ends.

Women’s Size:

(approx. 250 yards)
Finished measurement: 68” x 5 ¾”
Row 1: Ch 175, dc in 3^rd ch from hook and in each across.
Rows 2-7: In BLO: Ch 1, turn, dc in same and in each across.
Fasten off and sew in ends.

Men’s Size:

(approx. 275 yards)
Finished measurement: 78” x 5 ¾”
Row 1: Ch 200, dc in 3^rd ch from hook and in each across.
Rows 2-7: In BLO: Ch 1, turn, dc in same and in each across.
Fasten off and sew in ends.

Shown above is the youth size scarf with a skeleton applique sewn on and a green stripe made up of hdc's across each end of the scarf, you can find the free skeleton pattern here: Crochet Nirvana Skeleton Pattern

Free Crochet Pattern: Women's Cable Ear Warmer

Skill Level: Intermediate

Size: Teen/Women's, 21-22" head circumference, 4" wide

Supplies:

Red Heart With Love Yarn, approx. 150 yds.

Size H (5.0mm) Hook

Darning Needle

Scissors

Abbreviations (US Terms):

Bpdc - Back Post Double Crochet

Ch - Chain

Dc - Double Crochet

Fpdc - Front Post Double Crochet

Fptr - Front Post Treble Crochet

Sc - Single Crochet

Sk - Skip

Ss - Slip Stitch

St - Stitch

Important Notes:

-Ch 2's count as a dc.
-Gauge: 4 dc & 2 rows = 1"

This pattern now has a partial video tutorial to help with learning the cables! Check it out below or find the By Jenni Designs channel on YouTube!

Row 1: Ch 15, dc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 2, turn. (14 dc)

Row 2: Sk first st, fpdc in next st, dc in next 2 st, fpdc in next 6 st, dc in next 2 st, fpdc in next st, dc in last st. Ch 2, turn. (6 dc, 8 fpdc)

Row 3: Sk first st, bpdc in next st, dc in next 2 st, bpdc in next 6 st, dc in next 2 st, bpdc in next st, dc in last st. Ch 2, turn. (6 dc, 8 bpdc)

Row 4: Sk first st, fpdc in next st, dc in next 2 st, sk 3 st, fptr in next 3 st. Fptr in 1st skipped st, fptr in 2nd skipped st, fptr in 3rd skipped st. Dc in next 2 st, fpdc in next st, dc in last st. Ch 2, turn. (6 dc, 2 fpdc, 6 fptr)

**Row 5: Sk first st, bpdc in next st, dc in next 2 st, bpdc in next 6 st, dc in next 2 st, bpdc in next st, dc in last st. Ch 2, turn. (6 dc, 8 bpdc)

Row 6: Sk first st, fpdc in next st, dc in next 2 st, fpdc in next 6 st, dc in next 2 st, fpdc in next st, dc in last st. Ch 2, turn. (6 dc, 8 fpdc)

Row 7: Sk first st, bpdc in next st, dc in next 2 st, bpdc in next 6 st, dc in next 2 st, bpdc in next st, dc in last st. Ch 2, turn. (6 dc, 8 bpdc)

Row 8: Sk first st, fpdc in next st, dc in next 2 st, sk 3, fptr in next 3 st. Fptr in 1st skipped st, fptr in 2nd skipped st, fptr in 3rd skipped st. Dc in next 2 st, fpdc in next st, dc in last st. Ch 2, turn. (6 dc, 2 fpdc, 6 fptr)**

Continue to repeat from **to** for a total of 48 rows.

(Edge)

After row 48 fold the ear warmer in half with the right sides facing each other so you can slip stitch row 1 to row 48.

(click to view larger)

Row 1: Ch 1 and proceed to ss across making sure you are working through all 4 loops as you go.

 

After you have slip stitched across turn the ear warmer right side out and ch 1.

Now you will be working a row of sc's around the edge over the dc's & ch 2's. Begin by working 2 sc into the first space, work 1 sc into the next space. *2 sc over next, 1 sc over next.* Repeat *to* around. Join with a sl st. You should end with 72 sc.

 

Row 2: Ch 1 & sc in each space around. Join with a ss. (72 sc)
Fasten off.

Your edge should look nice and straight now.

Next, join yarn to the opposite side of the ear warmer with a ss and repeat rows 1 & 2.

Thanks for stopping by!
-Jenni