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Monday, November 16, 2015

Free Crochet Pattern, Instagram Re-post: Colorado C Applique

I really love Instagram (and all the fun apps that go with it)! It's the first place I go to share my crochet makings and I've met so many great fellow crocheters there. Recently, I shared a quick little pattern via. Instagram for my Colorado C Applique and I just wanted to take a minute to share it here on my blog also. The blue hat was made using my Women's Ribbed Hat Pattern. Do you use Instagram? You can find me @byjennidesigns, I'd love to connect with you!


Sunday, November 1, 2015

Free Crochet Pattern: Chains and Trebles Infinity Scarf


This is a great light weight scarf that I've been making for a couple years. The pattern is super simple and only uses 3 stitches: Chains, Trebles & Slip Stitches. You can choose to wear the scarf long or double it up to keep extra warm!

Thanks so much for stopping by, if you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask!
-Jenni



Size: Adult

Skill Level: Easy

Supplies:
Red Heart With Love Yarn, approx. 300 yds.
Size H (5.0 mm) Crochet Hook
Tapestry Needle
Scissors

Abbreviations (US Terms):
Ch - Chain
Sk - Skip
Sl St - Slip Stitch
Tr - Treble

Gauge:
A chain of 6 should measure approx. 1.5 inches.

Row 1: Ch 255, join with a sl st to the first ch to form a large circle. Try your best not to twist the chain. Ch 3, tr in same, ch 6, sk 6, *tr in next 2, ch 6, sk 6.* Repeat *to* around. Join with sl st to first tr. (32 ch-6 spaces)
Row 2-20: Ch 3, tr in same, ch 6, sk 6, *tr in next 2, ch 6, sk 6.* Repeat *to* around. Join with sl st to first tr. (32 ch-6 spaces)
Fasten off and sew in ends.

Friday, October 16, 2015

Free Crochet Amigurumi Pattern: The Skinny Frog

(Shown in Vanna's Choice Kelly Green, White & Denim)

Recently, I've found that I enjoy crocheting toys or amigurumi very much! I wanted to try my hand at a simple frog pattern and here's the final result! The pieces are simple to crochet, very easy to put together and works up fairly quick. I suggest using the same brand yarn for the entire project, whatever your favorite is.

Below is the first frog I made, my youngest son just loved him! When he first saw him he laughed and said, "I really, really like him.....he's so silly...and cute...and funny! ..." He went on about him for a while. As you can see, he has shorter arms than the final frog above. You can choose to stop where you please for the arms but the pattern is written for the longer arms.


While I was snapping the photo above my little guy waited patiently beside me then stuck his head in there too. I adore this picture and I'm so glad he still loves Mom's crochet!


Skill Level: Easy

Size:13.5" in length

Supplies:
Worsted Weight Yarn
     green (about 80-90 yd.), black, white & choice for shorts or skirt
Size G (4.0 mm) Crochet Hook
Size H (5.0 mm) Crochet Hook
2, 9 mm safety eyes or black buttons
Tapestry Needle
Scissors
Stitch Marker
Poly-fil

Abbreviations (US Terms):
Ch - Chain
Dc - Double Crochet
Hdc - Half Double Crochet
Sc - Single Crochet
Sc2tog - Single Crochet 2 Together
Sl st - Slip Stitch
Sp - Space

Notes:
-Sc2tog counts as sc.
-Joins are made with sl st.
-This pattern calls for use of the magic circle (aka magic ring), if you do not know how to make a magic circle you can learn here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=64O9WVJucFA

Legs & Arms
The legs and arms of the frog are worked in the round after the 2nd row. You can easily make the legs/arms longer or shorter if you would like.

With Size G hook & green yarn:
(Make 2 arms, 2 legs)

Row 1: Magic circle, ch 1, 6 sc in circle. Join. (6 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in same, sc in 2, 2 sc in next, sc in last 2. Do not join. (8 sc)

After row 2 you should sew in your beginning end.

Row 3: Sc in first and in each around. Instead of joining to the first sc, sc into it and you are now working in the round.

For the legs: Continue to repeat row 3 until you reach 32 rows.

For the arms: Continue to repeat row 3 for 25 rows.

Work a sl st in the last space of your last row, then fasten off.

Do not stuff.

When you are finished making both arms and legs continue on and make the body.

Body
The body of the frog is joined at the end of each row but you could also work the body in the round if you like. To work the body in the round do not join at the end of row 3, instead sc directly into the next space and keep going around and around until you reach 32 rows.

With size G hook & green yarn:
Row 1: Ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in the next 4, work 3 sc in last. Rotate piece to the right so you can work on opposite side of foundation ch. Sc in next 4, work 2 sc in last sp. Join to first sc. (14 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in first, sc in 5, 2 sc in next, 2 sc in next. Sc in 5, 2 sc in last sp. Join. (18 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, 2 sc in first, sc in 7, 2 sc in next, 2 sc in next. Sc in 7, 2 sc in last sp. Join. (22 sc)
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in first 3, 2 sc in next, sc in 3. 2 sc in next, sc in 6, 2 sc in next. Sc in 3, 2 sc in next, sc in last 3. Join. (26 sc)
Row 5: Ch 1, sc in first 6. 2 sc in next, sc in 12, 2 sc in next, sc in last 6. Join. (28 sc)
Row 6-32: Ch 1, sc in each around. Join. (28 sc)
Fasten off after row 32 leaving a long end to sew this opening shut.

You can now sew the legs & arms onto the body. The legs should be sewn to row 1, leaving a small space between the legs and the arms should be sewn to about row 24.

Next embroider on a smile using a tapestry needle and black yarn. You can now stuff with poly-fil and sew the opening shut. Continue on below with the eyes.

Eyes
(make 2)

With size G hook & white yarn:
Row 1: Magic circle, ch 1, 6 sc in circle. Join. (6 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each around. Join. (12 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, 2 sc in first, sc in next. *2 sc in next, sc in next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (18 sc)

Now would be the best time to place a safety eye in the center of the beginning magic circle. After placed, sew in this end.

Row 4-6: Ch 1, sc in each around. Join. (18 sc)
Row 7: Ch 1, sc in first, sc2tog. *Sc in next, sc2tog.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (12 sc)

You should now stuff your eye with poly-fil.

Row 8: Ch 1, *sc2tog.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (6 sc)
Fasten off, sew hole shut and sew in end.

Eye Lids
(make 2)

With size G hook & green yarn:
Row 1: Magic circle, ch 1, 7 sc in circle. Join. Pull circle tight and sew in end. (7 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each around. Join. (14 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, 2 sc in first, sc in next. *2 sc in next, sc in next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (21 sc)
Row 4-5: Ch 1, sc in each around. Join. (21 sc)
Row 6: Ch 1, sc in first, sc2tog, sc in 8, sc2tog, sc in 8. Join. (19 sc)
Row 7: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next and in each around. Join. (18 sc)
Row 8: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next and in each around. Before joining, slip your finished eye inside the eye lid. Join. (17 sc)
Fasten off and sew lid onto eye to make sure it's secure. Sew in end.

The last step in completing your frog is to sew his eyes on, make sure you also sew the two eyes to one another.

Shorts

With size H hook & color of choice yarn:
Row 1: Ch 26, join to first ch. Ch 1, sc in each around. Join. (26 sc)
Row 2-8: Ch 1, sc in each around. Join. (26 sc)
Row 9: Sc in first 13. Place a stitch marker in the next sp. Join to the first sc, leaving remaining sp un-worked. (13 sc)
Row 10-14: Ch 1, sc in each around. Join. (13 sc)
Fasten off after row 14.

You now have one side of the shorts completed.

Next, join yarn with a sl st to the sp previously indicated to place a stitch marker in. You may now remove the stitch marker.

Row 1-6: Ch 1, sc in each around. Join. (13 sc)
Fasten off after row 6 and sew in your ends.

Skirt

With size H hook & color of choice yarn:

Row 1: Ch 26, join to first ch. Ch 1, sc in each around. Join. (26 sc)
Row 2-8: Ch 1, sc in each around. Join. (26 sc)
Row 9: Ch 2, 3 dc in each around. Join. (78 dc)
Row 10: Ch 1, 2 hdc in each around. Join. (156 hdc)
Fasten off and sew in ends.

Small Bow

With size H hook & color of choice yarn:

Row 1: Ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across. Ch 1, turn. (6 sc)
Row 2: Sc in each across. Ch 1, turn. (6 sc)
Row 3: Sc in each across.
Fasten off and sew in ends.

Using a separate piece of yarn, no longer than 12", tie a knot around the center of the piece you just made. Wrap one end around a couple times, knot the two ends together then use them to also secure the bow to the top of the frog.

Sew in any remaining ends.



Friday, September 11, 2015

Free Crochet Pattern: Newborn Pumpkin Beanie Hat

(Shown in 
(left) Vanna's Choice Rust, Olive & Red Heart With Love Tan
(right) Vanna's Choice TerraCotta, Red Heart With Love Lettuce & Chocolate)


While creating the Ribbed Beanie or Newsboy Hat I realized the same hat could easily be used to make a cute little pumpkin hat and since Fall is nearly here why not share right away! I've re-written the pattern below for the hat so you don't have to pop over to the other pattern for it and added the easy patterns for the stem, leaf & curly vine. These are very simple additions and the entire hat can be completed within an hour. 

Please feel free to share pictures of your finished projects, you can add the photos to a project on Ravelry or upload them to my Facebook page here: facebook.com/byjennidesigns I love to see your finished work!

Thanks for stopping by, Happy Fall!
-Jenni

Size: Newborn, 13-14" head circumference

Supplies:
Worsted Weight Yarn in orange, tan & green
Size F (3.75 mm) hook
Size H (5.0 mm) hook
Size I (5.5 mm) hook
Tapestry needle
Scissors

Abbreviations (US Terms):
Ch - Chain
BLO - Back Loop Only
Dc - Double Crochet
Fpdc - Front Post Double Crochet
Hdc - Half Double Crochet
Sc - Single Crochet
Sk - Skip
Sl st - Slip Stitch

Hat

Notes:
-Joins are made with sl st.
-Ch 2's count as a dc in rows 2-10 only.
-Gauge: 3 dc's x 2 1/2 rows = 1".

Using Size I Hook & Orange Yarn:
Row 1: Magic circle (or ch 3, join to form circle), ch 2, 11 dc in circle. Join to first dc. (11 dc)
Row 2: Ch 2, fpdc around first dc from previous row. *Dc in next & fpdc around the dc below.* Repeat *to* around. Join to the first fpdc. (11 dc, 11 fpdc)
Row 3: Ch 2, dc in same, fpdc around next. *2 dc in next, fpdc around next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (22 dc, 11 fpdc)
Row 4: Ch 2, 2 dc in same, fpdc around next. *Dc in next, 2 dc in next, fpdc around next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (33 dc, 11 fpdc)
Row 5-10: Ch 2, dc in same, dc in next, fpdc around next. *dc in next 3, fpdc around next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (33 dc, 11 fpdc)
Row 11: In BLO: sc in same and in each around. Join. (44 sc)
Row 12-13: Ch 1, sc in same and in each around. Join. (44 sc)
Fasten off after row 13 and sew in your ends.

Stem

Using Size H Hook & Tan Yarn:
Row 1: Magic circle (or ch 3, join to form circle), ch 1, 6 sc. Join to first sc. (6 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in same, 2 sc in next. *Sc in next, 2 sc in next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (9 sc)
Row 3: In BLO: Ch 1, sc in same and in each around. Join. (9 sc)
Row 4-6: Ch 1, sc in same and in each around. Join. (9 sc)
Fasten off, sew in beginning end & lightly stuff. Sew on to top of hat with remaining end.

Leaf

Using Size H Hook & Green Yarn:
Row 1: Ch 6, sl st in 2nd ch from hook. Sc in next, Hdc in 2, sc in last. Ch 1 and sc in same while rotating piece to the right so you can work on opposite side of foundation chain. Hdc in 2, sc in next, sl st in last. Fasten off, sew on to hat.

Curly Vine

Using Size H Hook & Green Yarn:
Row 1: Join yarn with a sl st to the base of the stem that you have already sewn on to the hat. Ch 15.

Switch to size F Hook:
Work 3 sc into 2nd ch from hook and in each across. Join with a sl st to the hat (or you can fasten off then sew this end on to the hat instead), fasten off and sew in all ends.


Free Crochet Pattern: Newborn Ribbed Beanie or Newsboy Hat

(Shown in Red Heart Super Saver Light Blue, Medium Purple & White)

This sweet little hat was inspired by my Women's Ribbed Hat Pattern and works up quite fast. This is a simple pattern that you can easily change up for a slightly different look, I've included a 2 examples of my own below. 

If you have any questions feel free to ask so I can be of help. 
Thanks so much for stopping by!
-Jenni


Skill Level: Easy

Size: Newborn, 13-14" head circumference

Supplies:
Red Heart Super Saver or With Love Yarn
Size I (5.5 mm) crochet hook
Tapestry needle
Scissors
Optional for newsboy version: 2 small buttons, 10-12mm

Abbreviations (US Terms):
Ch - Chain
BLO - Back Loop Only
Dc - Double Crochet
Fpdc - Front Post Double Crochet
Hdc - Half Double Crochet
Sc - Single Crochet
Sk - Skip
Sl st - Slip Stitch

Notes:
-Joins are made with sl st.
-Ch 2's count as a dc in rows 2-10 only.
-Gauge: 3 dc's x 2 1/2 rows = 1".

Row 1: Magic circle (or ch 3, join to form a circle), ch 2, 11 dc in circle. Join to first dc. (11 dc)
Row 2: Ch 2, fpdc around first dc from previous row. *Dc in next & fpdc around the dc below.* Repeat *to* around. Join to the first fpdc. (11 dc, 11 fpdc)
Row 3: Ch 2, dc in same, fpdc around next. *2 dc in next, fpdc around next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (22 dc, 11 fpdc)
Row 4: Ch 2, 2 dc in same, fpdc around next. *Dc in next, 2 dc in next, fpdc around next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (33 dc, 11 fpdc)
Row 5-10: Ch 2, dc in same, dc in next, fpdc around next. *dc in next 3, fpdc around next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (33 dc, 11 fpdc)

For Beanie Style version(shown in purple & white):
Row 11: Switch to contrast color, join with sl st, ch 1. In BLO: sc in same and in each around. Join. (44 sc)
Row 12-13: Ch 1, sc in same and in each around. Join. (44 sc)
Fasten off after row 13 and sew in your ends, add an optional button to the band or whip up a little flower or applique and sew it on to the hat band. You may also want to add a pom-pom to the top of the hat, there are many ways you can make this simple hat your own.

Or for the newsboy version (shown in blue):
Row 11: Ch 2, dc in same, dc in next, fpdc around next. *dc in next 3, fpdc around next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (33 dc, 11 fpdc)
Row 12: Ch 1, sc in same, hdc in next 16, sc in next. Ch 1, turn.
Row 13: Sk 1st, 2 hdc in next. Hdc in 13, 2 hdc in next, sl st in next. Ch 1, turn.
Row 14: Sk 1st, sc in next and in each around. Join, fasten off and sew in ends.

For the band that goes above the brim of the newsboy version:

Row 1: Ch 27, dc in 3rd ch from hook, dc in next 23, sl st in last. Fasten off, sew on to hat and add 2 small decorative buttons. Sew in all  your ends.



 I tried out a third way to change up this hat. It worked out perfectly for a little pumpkin hat! You can find the patterns for the vine, leaf & stem here: Newborn Pumpkin Hat

Friday, July 31, 2015

Free Crochet Pattern: Hamburger Hat


For this pattern I played around with different hook sizes and found that simply changing the hook size (but using the same pattern) works perfectly for changing the size of the hat. Listed below is the gauge for each size, please check your gauge as I crochet tightly and you may need to adjust your hook to get the correct gauge. 

Thanks so much for stopping by to check out this pattern! 
-Jenni

Skill Level: Easy

Sizes
Toddler, 24-48 mo., 19-20" head circumference
Youth, 4-9 years, 20-21" head circumference
Teen/Women's, 21-22" head circumference

Supplies:
Red Heart With Love in Tan, Daffodil, Lettuce, Holly Berry, Chocolate & White
For toddler size: Size H (5.0mm) Hook
For youth size: Size I (5.5mm) Hook
For teen/women's size: Size J (6.0 mm) Hook
Tapestry needle
Scissors

Abbreviations (US Terms):
BLO - Back Loop Only
Ch - Chain
Dc - Double Crochet
FLO - Front Loop Only
Hdc - Half Double Crochet
Sc - Single Crochet
Sk - Skip
Sl St - Slip Stitch
Tr - Treble Crochet

Notes:
-Joins are made with sl st.
-Joins should be made to the first dc, not the ch 2.
-Ch 2's do not count as a dc.

Gauge
     Size H Hook: 4 dc = 1"
     Size I Hook: 3.5 dc = 1"
     Size J Hook: 3 dc = 1"

Hat
With Tan:
Row 1: Magic Circle, ch 2, 11 dc in circle. Join & sew magic circle shut. (11 dc)
Row 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in same and in each around. Join. (22 dc)
Row 3: Ch 2, 2 dc in same, dc in next. *2 dc in next, dc in next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (33 dc)
Row 4: Ch 2, 2 dc in same, dc in next 2. *2 dc in next, dc in next 2.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (44 dc)
Row 5: Ch 2, 2 dc in same, dc in next 3. *2 dc in next, dc in next 3.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (55 dc)
Row 6: Ch 2, 2 dc in same, dc in next 4. *2 dc in next, dc in next 4.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (66 dc)

Your circle should now measure across the center (make sure beginning circle is pulled tight):
     If using size H Hook: 5.5"
     If using size I Hook: 6"
     If using size J Hook: 6.5"

Row 7-10: Ch 2, dc in same and in each around. Join. (66 dc)
Fasten off. 

Join with Daffodil:
Row 11Ch 1, sc in same and in each around. Join. (66 sc)
Fasten off.

Join with Holly Berry:
Row 12Ch 1, sc in same and in each around. Join. (66 sc)
Fasten off.

Join with Chocolate:
Row 13-15Ch 1, hdc in same and in each around. Join. (66 hdc)
Fasten off.

Join with Lettuce:
For the next two rows, there is no need to check your stitch count, the rows may not end perfectly but this is ok. 
Row 16: In FLO: Ch 2, 3 dc in same, 2 dc in next,*3 dc in next, 2 dc in next.* Repeat from *to* around. Join. 
Row 17: Ch 2, 2 hdc in same, sc in next, sl st in next, sc in next, 2 hdc in next, 3 dc in each of the next 6. *2 hdc in next, sc in next, sl st in next, sc in next, 2 hdc in next, 3 dc in each of the next 6.* Repeat from *to* around. 
Fasten off.

Join with Tan:
Row 17: In BLO: Ch 2, dc in same and in each around. Join. (66 dc)
Row 18: Ch 2, dc in same and in each around. Join. (66 dc)
Row 19: Ch 1, hdc in same and in each around. Join. (66 hdc)
Row 20: Ch 1, sc in same and in each around. Join. (66 sc)
Fasten off and sew in all ends. 

Toppings:
For these additions, be sure you are using the same size hook as the hat you made.

Tomatoes:
Add as many tomatoes as you like and space them how you wish, I used 3 tomatoes in my example and spaced them roughly 10-15 stitches apart.

Row 1: Using Holly Berry, join with sl st to any hdc post from row 15. Ch 4, sk 3 posts. Around the next post work the following: [tr, ch 3, tr, ch 4], sk 3 posts, sl st to the next post. Turn. (2 tr, 11 ch)
Row 2: Turn, work 5 sc over the ch 4. Sc in top of tr, work 4 sc over the ch 3, sc in top of tr, work 5 sc over the last ch 4. Fasten off and knot these two ends together.

Now sew in your ends under the row of sc's back & forth to help stiffen this edge of the tomato. This will help your tomato keep it's shape.  

Onions:
In my example I used three different size onions, below I'll list each and you can decide which you would like to use. You may place your onions anywhere you please, I placed mine a couple stitches under each tomato so they would look layered.

Large Onion: Using white, join with sl st to any hdc post from row 15. Ch 20, sk 7 posts, sl st to next post. Turn and work 25 sc over your ch. Turn and sl st across each sc. Fasten off. Using the ends, sew the onion edge to the hat and then sew the ends under the row of sc's like you did for the tomato. 

Medium Onion: Using white, join with sl st to any hdc post from row 15. Ch 15, sk 5 posts, sl st to next post. Turn and work 20 sc over your ch. Turn and sl st across each sc. Fasten off. Using the ends, sew the onion edge to the hat and then sew the ends under the row of sc's like you did for the tomato.  

Small Onion: Using white, join with sl st to any hdc post from row 15. Ch 10, sk 4 posts, sl st to next post. Turn and work 15 sc over your ch. Turn and sl st across each sc. Fasten off. Using the ends, sew the onion edge to the hat and then sew the ends under the row of sc's like you did for the tomato.  

Friday, July 17, 2015

Free Crochet Pattern: Elf Hat's for all!

(Shown in Caron Simply Soft White, Lavender Blue & Soft Pink)

This pattern is super simple and the best part is you can easily continue increasing to obtain any size elf hat you wish! The written pattern is for the 0-3 month size but the size changes are noted after row 29. The 0-3 mo. size hat will fit a head circumference of 14-15". Please remember all head sizes can vary age to age and my sizes are listed as a guide only. I suggest taking your own measurements before starting. I have not listed which rows to change colors in, your color changes are up to you or make your hat a solid color with the band and pom pom a contrasting color.

Thanks so much for stopping by!
-Jenni

Skill Level: Beginner

Size: Baby-Adult

Supplies:
Size H (5.0 mm) Crochet Hook
Worsted Weight Yarn, yardage will vary depending on the size you are making
Tapestry Needle
Scissors

Abbreviations (US Terms):
BLO- Back Loop Only
Ch - Chain
Dc - Double Crochet
Fpdc - Front Post Double Crochet
Sl st - Slip Stitch
Sp - Space

Notes:
-Ch 1's do not count as a stitch.
-All joins are made with a sl st to the first dc in the row.
-Be sure you are working this hat right side out, it is very difficult to turn it right side out at the end.
Also, if you are working stripes be sure to sew in your ends as you go.

Gauge:
4 dc & 2 rows = 1"
Gauge is important to obtain the correct size hat, if you are not getting gauge please adjust your hook size.

Row 1: Magic circle (or ch 3, join to form circle), ch 1, 8 dc in circle. Join, pull your circle tight and sew in this beginning end. (8 dc)

For rows 2-29 each row will increase by 1 stitch, 2 dc's are worked in the very last space of each row. When you reach row 29 your stitch count should be 36 (for the 0-3 mo. size elf hat).

Row 2-29: Ch 1, dc in same and in each around, work 2 dc total in last sp. Join.

To make this hat for a newborn continue on to row 30.
For all other sizes follow the recommendations below.

For 3-6 mo. size (15-16" head circumference):
Repeat the last row (labeled row 2-29) for 4 additional rows, your last row should have a stitch count of 40 dc. Now continue on below with the row labeled 30, please note the stitch count will no longer be correct but your final increase row (labeled row 33) should have a stitch count of 48 dc.

For 6-9 mo. size (16-17" head circumference):
Repeat the last row (labeled row 2-29) for 8 additional rows, your last row should have a stitch count of 44 dc. Now continue on below with the row labeled 30, please note the stitch count will no longer be correct but your final increase row (labeled row 33) should have a stitch count of 52 dc.

For 9-12 mo. size (17-18" head circumference):
Repeat the last row (labeled row 2-29) for 12 additional rows, your last row should have a stitch count of 48 dc. Now continue on below with the row labeled 30, please note the stitch count will no longer be correct but your final increase row (labeled row 33) should have a stitch count of 56 dc.

For 12-24 mo. size (18-19" head circumference):
Repeat the last row (labeled row 2-29) for 16 additional rows, your last row should have a stitch count of 52 dc. Now continue on below with the row labeled 30, please note the stitch count will no longer be correct but your final increase row (labeled row 33) should have a stitch count of 60 dc.

For 24-48 mo. size (19-20" head circumference):
Repeat the last row (labeled row 2-29) for 20 additional rows, your last row should have a stitch count of 56 dc. Now continue on below with the row labeled 30, please note the stitch count will no longer be correct but your final increase row (labeled row 33) should have a stitch count of 64 dc.

For Youth & Pre-teen size (20-21" head circumference):
Repeat the last row (labeled row 2-29) for 24 additional rows, your last row should have a stitch count of 60 dc. Now continue on below with the row labeled 30, please note the stitch count will no longer be correct but your final increase row (labeled row 33) should have a stitch count of 68 dc.

For Teens & Women's size (21-22" head circumference):
Repeat the last row (labeled row 2-29) for 28 additional rows, your last row should have a stitch count of 64 dc. Now continue on below with the row labeled 30, please note the stitch count will no longer be correct but your final increase row (labeled row 33) should have a stitch count of 72 dc.

For Men's size (22-23" head circumference):
Repeat the last row (labeled row 2-29) for 32 additional rows, your last row should have a stitch count of 68 dc. Now continue on below with the row labeled 30, please note the stitch count will no longer be correct but your final increase row (labeled row 33) should have a stitch count of 76 dc.

Row 30: Ch 1, dc in same and in next 7. 2 dc in next, dc in 18, 2 dc in next, dc in each to end. Join. (38 dc)
Row 31: Ch 1, dc in same and in next 8. 2 dc in next, dc in 18, 2 dc in next, dc in each to end. Join. (40 dc)
Row 32: Ch 1, dc in same and in next 9. 2 dc in next, dc in 18, 2 dc in next, dc in each to end. Join. (42 dc)
Row 33: Ch 1, dc in same and in next 10. 2 dc in next, dc in 18, 2 dc in next, dc in each to end. Join. (44 dc)
Row 34-35: Ch 1, dc in same and in each around. Join. (44 dc)

Fasten off and join with your contrast color:

Row 36: In BLO: Ch 1, dc in same and in each around. Join. (44 dc)
Row 37-38: Ch 1, dc in same, fpdc around next. *Dc in next, fpdc around next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (22 dc, 22 fpdc)

If you are making a size larger than the 6-9 mo. size you may want to repeat the last row one or two more times, this is completely up to you though.

Row 39: Ch 1, turn, sc in same and in each around. Join, fasten off and sew in ends. (44 sc)

After sewing in all your ends you can now add a pom-pom or braid!


Friday, May 22, 2015

Free Crochet Pattern: Little C's Silly Hand Puppets


I am so excited to share this pattern! It's 100% inspired by my youngest son who recently approached me with a sock on his hand asking how we can make it have eyes. From there these fun puppets were born! These would be a great way to use up scrap yarn and you can customize them in many ways. 

If you give the pattern a try, we'd love to see how your puppets turn out! Feel free to share on Google+, Instagram (using either @byjennidesigns or #byjennidesigns), upload to Ravelry as a project or share on my Facebook wall. 

If you have any questions please do ask, thanks so much for stopping by!
-Jenni


Here's my Little C with his puppets!
(He's laying on my current WIP, the As We Go Stripey Blanket by Hannah Davis)


Skill Level: Intermediate

Size: Youth-Women's, as a guide my hand measures from the top of the middle finger to the bottom of my hand measures about 7" and my son's measures 5".

Supplies:
Size H (5.0mm) Crochet Hook
Worsted Weight Yarn in choice colors (I mixed & match many brands: Red Heart Super Saver, Red Heart With Love, I Love This Yarn!, Vanna's Choice & Caron United)
Stitch marker
Tapestry needle
Scissors
Optional: buttons or safety eyes

Abbreviations (US Terms):
BLO - Back Loop Only
Ch - Chain
Dc - Double Crochet
Dc2tog - Double Crochet 2 Together
Fpdc - Front Post Double Crochet
Hdc - Half Double Crochet
Sc - Single Crochet
Sc2tog - Single Crochet 2 Together
Sk - Skip
Sl st - Slip Stitch
Slst2tog - Slip Stitch 2 Together (explanation below)
Sp - Space

Stitch explanation:
Slst2tog - Insert hook in first sp, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), insert hook into next sp, pull up a loop and pull loop through both loops on hook. Stitch complete.

Notes:
-Ch 2's do not count as a dc unless otherwise stated.
-Joins are made with a sl st to the first stitch, not the beginning ch.
-Be sure to always pull your beginning magic circles tight before sewing in the end.

Gauge:
4 dc & 2 rows = 1"

Puppet
With desired main color:

Row 1: Magic circle, ch 2, 11 dc in circle. Join. (11 dc)
Row 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in same and in each around. Join. (22 dc)
Row 3: Ch 2, 2 dc in same, dc in next. *2 dc in next, dc in next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (33 dc)
Row 4-10: Ch 2, dc in same and in each around. Join. (33 dc)
Row 11: Ch 2, dc in same and in 22 more, place a stitch marker in the top of this last dc you made. You will be coming back to this space later. Now continue to to dc around to the end. Join. (33 dc)
Row 12: Ch 2, dc in same and in 21 more, ch 11, sk 11. Join to first dc. (22 dc, 11 ch)
Row 13: Ch 2, dc in same and in each around, work 11 dc over the ch 11 from previous row. Join. (33 dc)
Row 14-18: Ch 2, dc in same and in each around. Join. (33 dc)
Fasten off & sew in ends.

Now join with a new color for the cuff:

Row 19: In BLO: Ch 2, dc in same and in each around. Join. (33 dc)
Row 20-22: Ch 2 (counts as dc), Fpdc around next. *Dc in next, fpdc around next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (17 dc, 17 fpdc)
Row 23: In BLO: Ch 1, sc in same and in each around. Join. (33 sc)
Fasten off.


Mouth
With main color:

Attach yarn with a sl st in the dc you placed a stitch marker in earlier and you can now remove the stitch marker.

Row 1: Ch 2, dc in same and next 10. Rotate piece so you can work 2 dc over the dc post that is the corner of the opening.

Now rotate your piece again and you will now need to work between the dc's.


and then work 2 dc over the other corner of the opening. Join. Please be sure you check your stitch count. (28 dc)
Row 2-3: Ch 2, dc in same and in each around. Join. (28 dc)
Row 4: Ch 2, dc in same and in 10 more, dc2tog, dc in 13, dc2tog. Join. (24 dc, 2 dc2tog)
Row 5: Ch 2, starting in the same sp as the ch 2; dc2tog, dc in 8, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc in 10, dc2tog. Join. (18 dc, 4 dc2tog)
Row 6: Ch 1, starting in the same sp as the ch 1; *sc2tog.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (11 sc2tog)
Row 7:  Ch 1, starting in the same sp as the ch 1; sc2tog, *sc in next, sc2tog.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (3 sc, 4 sc2tog)
Fasten off leaving a long end. Turn piece inside out and sew shut the hole, also sew in any other ends at this time too.


Spots
With desired contrast color for spots:

Large Spot
Row 1: Magic circle, ch 1, 8 hdc in circle. Join. (8 hdc)
Row 2: Ch 1, 2 hdc in same and in each around. Join. (16 hdc)
Fasten off leaving long end to sew on to puppet

Small Spot
Row 1: Magic circle, ch 1, 8 hdc in circle. Join. (8 hdc)
Fasten off leaving long end to sew on to puppet.

Sew any spots you've made on to desired area on puppet now, sew in ends.


Nose
With desired color for nose:

Row 1: Magic circle, ch 1, 6 sc in circle. Join. (6 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in same and in each around. Join. (12 sc)
Row 3-4: Ch 1, sc in same and in each around. Join. (12 sc)
Stuff the nose now with poly fil or small bits of yarn.
Row 5: Ch 1, starting in the same sp as the ch 1; *sc2tog.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (6 sc2tog)
Fasten off. You will have a small hole, just sew it shut and then sew on to the puppet. Sew in ends.


Eyes

Flat Eyes
With White (make 2):


Row 1: Magic circle, ch 2, 10 dc in circle. Join. (10 dc)
Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in same and in each around. Join. (20 sc)
Fasten off leaving long end for sewing on to puppet.

Now you can add a button to each eye or crochet the rest of the eye:

With Black or any other desired color (make 2):
Row 1: Magic circle, ch 1, 8 hdc in circle. Join. (8 hdc)
Fasten off leaving long end for sewing on to white part of eye.

Sew eyes on to puppet and sew in ends.

Googly Eyes
With white and 15mm safety eyes (2) or buttons (make 2):


Important note: Insert your safety eyes before pulling your magic circle shut, I did this after row 2.

Row 1: Magic circle, ch 1, 8 sc in circle. Join. (8 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in same and in each around. Join. (16 sc)
Row 3-5: Ch 1, sc in same and in each around. Join. (16 sc)
Row 6: Ch 1, starting in the same sp as the ch 1; *sc2tog.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (8 sc2tog)
Row 7: Ch 1, starting in the same sp as the ch 1: *slst2tog.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (4 slst2tog)
Fasten off leaving long end for sewing on to puppet, after sewing on sew in ends.


Tongue
With Red or Pink

Big Tongue

Leave a long end in the beginning for sewing on to the puppet.
Row 1: Ch 7, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across. Ch 1, turn. (6 hdc)
Row 2-3: Hdc in same and in each across. Ch 1, turn. (6 hdc)
Row 4: Sc2tog, sc in 2, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc, 2 sc2tog)
Row 5: Sc2tog, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc2tog)
Row 6: Sc2tog. Sl st around the entire edge of tongue, fasten off leaving long end for sewing on to puppet.
When sewing this tongue into the mouth you will need to sew down about half of it so it lays nicely.

Small Tongue

Leave a long end in the beginning for sewing on to the puppet.
Row 1: Ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 2. Turn. (3 sc)
Row 2-4: Sc across. Turn. (3 sc)
Row 5: Sl st, sc, sl st. Sl st around entire edge of tongue, fasten off leaving long end for sewing on to puppet.


Hair

Cut strands of yarn and double knot on to the top of the head of the puppet or add longer strands and braid them together, add multiple colors or keep your puppet bald.
You can also make cute curls (my favorite) by doing the following: Attach yarn with sl st where you would like the curl to start, chain as long as you would like (my chain is 15).

Work 3 sc into the 2nd ch from hook and in each chain down except the last. When you get to the end of the chain sl st to the head and either start another curl (I made 3 curls) or fasten off. Sew in ends.

Friday, May 15, 2015

Free Crochet Pattern: Small Striped Tote Bag

(Shown in Caron One Pound Soft Grey Mix, White & Sunflower
You can find a select variety of the 30 mm buttons in my Etsy shop here: By Jenni Designs)

This easy tote is worked in hdc's with a crab stitch edging, I love the crab stitch and use it often! The crab stitch is also referred to as a reverse single crochet by some. I recommend Caron One Pound yarn for this project, this yarn is slightly stiff (but not scratchy) and works well for a bag. You may of course use any worsted weight yarn you would like. 

If you have any questions at all feel free to ask away, thanks for stopping by!
-Jenni


Skill Level: Easy

Finished Size: 10" in height x 14" wide (taken laid flat, does not include the bottom of bag)

Supplies:
Caron One Pound Yarn, worsted weight in 3 choice colors
Tapestry Needle
Scissors
Optional: 4 wooden buttons, size 30 mm 

Abbreviations (US Terms):
Ch - Chain
Sc - Single Crochet
Sl St - Slip Stitch
Sp - Space
Hdc - Half Double Crochet
C1 - Color 1
C2 - Color 2
C3 - Color 3

Note:
-Joins are made with sl st, be sure to pull your sl st joins tight so you don't end up with holes or gaps in your work.

Gauge:
4 hdc & 3 rows = 1"
Gauge is not extremely important for this pattern unless you want your tote the same size as the example. 

Bag

With C1:
Row 1: Ch 31, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across. Work 4 more hdc in last sp while rotating piece to the right so you can work on the opposite side of the foundation ch. Hdc in each across, working 4 hdc total in last sp. Join to first hdc. (66 hdc)
Row 2: Ch 1, 2 hdc in same, hdc in 29, 2 hdc in each of the next 4 sp, hdc in 29, 2 hdc in each of the last 3 sp. Join to first hdc. (74 hdc)
Row 3: Ch 1, 2 hdc in same, hdc in 31, 2 hdc in each of the next 6 sp, hdc in 31, 2 hdc in each of the last 5 sp. Join to first hdc. (86 hdc)
Row 4: Ch 1, 2 hdc in same, hdc in 35, 2 hdc in each of the next 8 sp, hdc in 35, 2 hdc in each of the last 7 sp. Join to first hdc. (102 hdc)
Row 5: Ch 1, hdc in same and in next 44, 2 hdc in next 2 sp, hdc in next 49, 2 hdc in next 2 sp, hdc in last 4 sp. Join to first hdc, fasten off. (106 hdc)

Your piece should measure about 12" x 3 1/2".

With C2:
Join with sl st. 
Row 6-10: Ch 1, hdc in same and in each around. Join. (106 hdc)
Fasten off. 

With C3:
Join with sl st. 
Row 11-15: Ch 1, hdc in same and in each around. Join. (106 hdc)
Fasten off. 

With C2:
Join with sl st. 
Row 16-20: Ch 1, hdc in same and in each around. Join. (106 hdc)
Fasten off. 

With C3:
Join with sl st. 
Row 21-25: Ch 1, hdc in same and in each around. Join. (106 hdc)
Fasten off. 

With C2:
Join with sl st. 
Row 26-30: Ch 1, hdc in same and in each around. Join. (106 hdc)
Fasten off. 

With C3:
Join with sl st. 
Row 31-34: Ch 1, hdc in same and in each around. Join. (106 hdc)
Row 35: Ch 1, Crab Stitch around, join, fasten off and sew in all your ends.


Straps
(make 2)

With C1:
Row 1: Ch 85, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across. Ch 1, turn. (84 sc)
Row 2-4: Sc in same and in each across. Ch 1, turn. (84 sc)
Row 5: Crab stitch around entire strap, ch 1 at the corners. Join, fasten off and sew in ends. 

If you are adding the optional buttons, add them now and then sew your straps on to the bag. I laid the bag flat and measured from the sides about 2 1/4" for my placement.  

Now this next step is optional but I didn't like how my stitches looked on the inside of the bag from sewing on my straps so I decided to create a little patch to cover them with. If you are lining your bag with fabric this step is not necessary. Unfortunately, my sewing machine hasn't been in working condition so I am not lining my bag (I was considering hand sewing a lining, maybe later though.). 

Patch
(make 4)

With C3:
Row 1: Ch 7, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across. Ch 1, turn. (6 hdc)
Row 2-4: Hdc in same and in each across. Ch 1, turn. (6 hdc)
Row 5: Hdc in same and in each across. Fasten off leaving a long end to sew on to bag. Using a whip stitch sew patch on to bag, sew in ends. 



Friday, April 17, 2015

Free Crochet Pattern: Youth Size Crochet Cupcake Hat

(Shown in Red Heart With Love Bubble Gum, Tan & Berry Red)

Skill Level: Easy/Intermediate

Size: Youth, 4-9 years, 20-21" head circumference

Supplies:
Red Heart With Love, worsted weight yarn in choice colors
Tapestry needle
Scissors

Abbreviations (US Terms):
BLO - Back Loop Only
Ch - Chain
Dc - Double Crochet
FLO - Front Loop Only
Fpdc - Front Post Double Crochet
Sc - Single Crochet
Sk - Skip
Sl St - Slip Stitch
Tr - Treble Crochet

Notes:
-Joins are made with sl st.
-Joins should be made to the first dc, not the ch 2.
-Ch 2's do not count as a dc.
-Gauge: 4 dc & 2 rows = 1"

Hat
With size I hook & frosting color:

Row 1: Magic Circle, ch 2, 11 dc in circle. Join. (11 dc)
Row 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in same and in each around. Join. (22 dc)
Row 3: Ch 2, 2 dc in same, dc in next. *2 dc in next, dc in next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (33 dc)
Row 4: Ch 2, 2 dc in same, dc in next 2. *2 dc in next, dc in next 2.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (44 dc)
Row 5: Ch 2, 2 dc in same, dc in next 3. *2 dc in next, dc in next 3.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (55 dc)
Row 6: Ch 2, 2 dc in same, dc in next 4. *2 dc in next, dc in next 4.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (66 dc)

Your circle should measure about 6" across the center.

Row 7-11: Ch 2, dc in same and in each around. Join. (66 dc)
Row 12: IN FLO: *Sk 2, in next: [dc, 4 tr, dc], sk 1, sl st in 2.* Repeat *to* around. Do not fasten off, instead pull up a loop and leave the yarn attached. Remove your hook. We will come back to this after finishing the cupcake portion of the hat.


-The next row is worked in the un-worked back loops from the previous row, hold down the shells while working around. Be sure to count your stitches at the end of the next row and be sure you have 66 dc.


Using size I hook & cupcake color:
Row 13: IN BLO: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next and in each around. Join to 3rd chain. (66 dc)
Row 14-18: Ch 3 (counts as dc), fpdc around next. *Dc in next, fpdc around next* Repeat *to* around. Join to 3rd chain.

-Work the next row loosely.

Row 19: Ch 1, turn, sl st in next and in each around. Join, fasten off and sew in ends.

Now using your frosting color again: Insert your hook into the loop you left loose earlier, *Sl st, ch 1* around the hat repeating from *to* just above the shells you created, this will help the shells to lay nicely. Fasten off and sew in ends.

Cherry
Using size H hook & cherry color:

Row 1: Magic circle, ch 1, 6 sc in circle. Pull magic circle tight, join. (6 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each around. Join. (12 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in same, 2 sc in next. *Sc in next, 2 sc in next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (18 sc)
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in each around. Join. (18 sc)
Row 5: Ch 1, sc in same, sc2tog. *sc in next, sc2tog.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (12 sc)
Row 6: Ch 1, sc in same, sc2tog. *sc in next, sc2tog.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (8 sc)
You should now fill your cherry with poly-fil or small ends of yarn work like a charm too!
Row 7: Ch 1, sc2tog 4 times. Join.
Fasten off leaving long enough end to sew onto top of hat.
If needed, sew bottom of cherry closed. Sew on to hat and either sew in the end or pull it through the top of the cherry to make a stem. Tie a knot in the stem as close to the top of the cherry as possible so it will stay in place.

Optional: You can now add sprinkles to the top of the hat by tying on yarn pieces in multiple colors or leave it as is. I've also created the same hat using Red Heart Super Saver Coffee Fleck, this fun yarn makes sprinkles easy!