Free Crochet Pattern: Scrubby Washcloth Set

(Shown in Peaches & Cream Pansy and Red Heart Scrubby Grape, additional color examples shown)

Hello! Today I am sharing 3 simple crochet washcloth patterns that work up fairly quick, I was able to completed a full set in 3 hours. I'm really loving this Scrubby Yarn by Red Heart and I've tested the rags myself in the kitchen and they work great! Listed below in the supplies is the yardage needed to complete the entire set. If you have any questions please feel free to ask.

Thanks for stopping by!
-Jenni

 

Difficulty: Easy

Size: 7" x 7"

Supplies:
Red Heart Scrubby Yarn, 1 ball, 92 yards
Lily Peaches n Cream Yarn, 1 ball, 95 yards
Size I (5.5mm) hook
Scissors
Tapestry needle

Abbreviations (US terms):
Ch - Chain
FLO - Front Loop Only
Hdc - Half Double Crochet
Sc - Single Crochet
Sl St  -Slip Stitch

Notes:
-The first stitch of every row is to be worked in the same space as the ch 1.

Gauge: With cotton yarn & I hook: 4 hdc = 1"

Super Scrubby

(Shown in Red Heart Scrubby Grape, Ocean & Bubble Gum)

Using Scrubby Yarn:
Row 1: Ch 27, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across. Ch 1, turn. (26 hdc)
Row 2-19: Hdc in each. Ch 1, turn. (26 hdc)
Row 20: Hdc in each. (26 hdc)
Fasten off & sew in ends.

1/3 Scrubby

 

Using Cotton Yarn:
Row 1: Ch 26, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across. Ch 1, turn. (25 hdc)
Row 2-5: In FLO: Hdc in each. Ch 1, turn. (25 hdc)
Fasten off.

Join Scrubby Yarn:
Row 6-11: Hdc in each. Ch 1, turn. (25 hdc)
Fasten off.

Join Cotton Yarn:
Row 12: Hdc in each. Ch 1, turn. (25 hdc)
Row 13-16: In FLO: Hdc in each. Ch 1, turn. (25 hdc)
Row 17: Sc in each, working your way around the entire rag. In each corner work the following [sc, ch, sc]. Sl st to join. (approx. 25 sc per side)
Fasten off and sew in ends.

No Scrubby

(Shown in Peaches & Cream Pansy, Seaside Stripes & Strawberry Stripes)

Using Cotton Yarn:
Row 1: Ch 27, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across. Ch 1, turn. (26 sc)
Row 2-22: In FLO: Sc in each. Ch 1, turn. (26 sc)
Row 23: Sc in each, working your way around the entire rag. In each corner work the following [sc, ch, sc]. Sl st to join. (approx. 26 sc per side)
Fasten off and sew in ends.

All done and ready for use or gift giving!

 

 

Free Crochet Pattern: Women's Chunky Unicorn Hat

I've been wanting an excuse to make a Unicorn hat for myself and I finally have one, Halloween! This pattern works up pretty quick thanks to the use of bulky yarn! Please check your gauge, I've noticed many people having sizing problems with my hat patterns because they are not checking the gauge listed within the pattern. I do crochet tightly so chances are you will need to change your tension or switch to a lower hook size to get gauge.

Thanks so much for stopping by!

-Jenni

Difficulty: Easy-Intermediate

Size: Women's, 21-22" head circumference

Supplies:
Size I (5.5mm) Hook
Size L (8.0mm) Hook
Caron One Pound yarn in Sunflower, 25 yards
Premier Yarns, Deborah Norville Serenity Chunky in Pink Candy, 80 yards
Bernat Softee Chunky Yarn in White, 140 yards
Tapestry Needle
Scissors

Abbreviations (US terms):
Ch - Chain
Dc - Double Crochet
Hdc - Half Double Crochet
Hdc2tog - Half Double Crochet 2 Together
Hdc3tog - Half Double Crochet 3 Together
Sc - Single Crochet
Sk - Skip
Sl st - Slip Stitch
Sp - Space

Notes:
-Ch 1 does NOT count as a stitch.
-Joins are made with a sl st to the first stitch made, not the ch.
-This pattern uses a magic circle, if you don't know how to make one you can learn with this quick video tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=64O9WVJucFA 
-The first stitch in every row is to be worked in the same space as the ch 1.
-Hdc2tog & Hdc3tog count as 1 stitch.

Gauge: 7 hdc = 3" (using bulky yarn & size L hook)

Hat

Using Size L hook & White yarn:
Row 1: Magic Circle, ch 1, 10 hdc in circle. Pull circle tight and join. (10)
Row 2: Ch 1, 2 hdc in each sp around. Join. (20)
Row 3: Ch 1, *hdc, 2 hdc in next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (30)
Row 4: Ch 1, *hdc in 2, 2 hdc in next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (40)
Row 5: Ch 1, *hdc in 3, 2 hdc in next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (50)
Row 6-14: Ch 1, hdc in each sp around. Join. (50)
Fasten off and sew in ends.

Ear Flaps

First Ear Flap:

Counting from where you fastened off, towards the left:
Row 1: Sk 6. Join yarn in next sp with a sl st, ch 1, hdc in same sp. Hdc in next 8 sp. Ch 1, turn. (9)
Row 2: Hdc2tog, hdc in 5, hdc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (7)
Row 3: Hdc in each sp. Ch 1, turn. (7)
Row 4: Hdc2tog, hdc in 3, hdc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (5)
Row 5: Hdc in each sp. Ch 1, turn. (5)
Row 6: Hdc2tog, hdc, hdc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (3)
Row 7: Hdc in each sp. Ch 1, turn. (3)
Row 8: Hdc3tog.
Fasten off.

Second Ear Flap:

Counting from the last hdc made in row one of the first ear flap, towards the left:
Row 1: Sk 19. Join yarn in next sp with a sl st, ch 1, hdc in same sp. Hdc in next 8 sp. Ch 1, turn. (9)
Row 2: Hdc2tog, hdc in 5, hdc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (7)
Row 3: Hdc in each sp. Ch 1, turn. (7)
Row 4: Hdc2tog, hdc in 3, hdc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (5)
Row 5: Hdc in each sp. Ch 1, turn. (5)
Row 6: Hdc2tog, hdc, hdc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (3)
Row 7: Hdc in each sp. Ch 1, turn. (3)
Row 8: Hdc3tog. Ch 1, turn. Sc around the entire edge of hat & ear flaps, Join.
Fasten off.

Switch to the Pink Candy yarn (still using size L hook):
Row 9: Join with a sl st, ch 1, sc in each sp. around. Join.
Fasten off and sew in ends.

Unicorn Ears

(make 2)

Using Size L hook & White yarn:
Row 1: Ch 4, hdc in 2nd ch from hook. Hdc in next 2. Ch 1, turn. (3)
Row 2: 2 hdc, hdc, 2 hdc. Ch 1, turn. (5)
Row 3: Hdc in each sp across. Ch 1, turn. (5)
Row 4: Hdc2tog, hdc, hdc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (3)
Row 5: Hdc3tog. Ch 1 and sc around entire edge of ear, working 2 hdc in each corner.
Fasten off.

Unicorn Horn

Using size I hook & Sunflower yarn:

Row 1: Magic circle, ch 1, 6 sc in circle. Pull circle tight and join. (6)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each sp around. Join. (6)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each, 2 sc in last. Join. (7)

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in each sp around. Join. (7)

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each, 2 sc in last. Join. (8)
Row 6: Ch 1, sc in each sp around. Join. (8)
Row 7: Ch 1, sc in each, 2 sc in last. Join. (9)
Row 8: Ch 1, sc in each sp around. Join. (9)
Row 9: Ch 1, sc in each, 2 sc in last. Join. (10)
Row 10: Ch 1, sc in each sp around. Join. (10)
Row 11: Ch 1, sc in each, 2 sc in last. Join. (11)
Row 12: Ch 1, sc in each sp around. Join. (11)
Row 13: Ch 1, sc in each, 2 sc in last. Join. (12)
Row 14: Ch 1, sc in each sp around. Join. (12)
Row 15: Ch 1, sc in each, 2 sc in last. Join. (13)
Row 16: Ch 1, sc in each sp around. Join. (13)
Row 17: Ch 1, sc in each, 2 sc in last. Join. (14)
Row 18: Ch 1, sc in each sp around. Join. (14)
Fasten off leaving a long end for sewing.

Finishing

Horn:
Sew horn to the center front of the hat within rows 4 & 5.

Ears:
Sew each ear 7 hdc away from the horn, within the same row as the horn.

Mane:
Using the Pink Candy yarn double knot on 5" pieces of yarn down the center of the hat to make a mohawk. In the front of the hat leave about 8 rows without mohawk.

All done, now you're ready to be fabulous!

Free Crochet Pattern: Ribbed Women's Beanie

I've had many requests for additional sizes of my Ribbed Toddler Hat so here is the first in line and coming shortly will be the Men's & Children's sizes (I'll link them when available).

Thanks for stopping by! 

-Jenni

Size: Women's, 21-22" head circumference

Supplies:
Worsted Weight Yarn, approx. 175-200 yd.
Size I (5.5mm) Hook
Tapestry Needle
Scissors
Optional: Pom-Pom
                or learn how to make your own here: How to make faux fur pom-poms

Abbreviations (US terms):
Ch - Chain
Dc - Double Crochet
Fpdc - Front Post Double Crochet
Sc - Single Crochet
Sl st - Slip Stitch

Notes:
-Ch 2's count as a dc.
-Joins are made with a sl st to the first dc made, not the ch 2.
-This pattern uses a magic circle, if you don't know how to make one you can learn with this quick video tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=64O9WVJucFA

Gauge: 4 dc = 1".

Row 1: Magic Circle, ch 2 (counts as a dc throughout), 11 dc in circle. Pull circle tight and join. (12)
Row 2: Ch 2, fpdc around same (this fpdc is to be worked around the ch 2 from the previous row). *Dc in next and fpdc around same.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (24)
Row 3: Ch 2, dc in same, fpdc around next. *2 dc in next, fpdc around next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (36)
Row 4: Ch 2, 2 dc in same, fpdc around next. *Dc in next, 2 dc in next, fpdc around next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (48)
Row 5: Ch 2, dc in same, fpdc around next, *2 dc in next, fpdc around next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (72)
Row 6-21: Ch 2, dc in same, fpdc around next. *Dc in 2, fpdc around next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (72)
Row 22-23: Ch 1 (does not count as sc), sc in same and in each around. Join. (71)

Fasten off, sew in ends and attach your pom-pom.

Photo Tutorial: How to Make Faux Fur Pom-Poms!

You'll be surprised just how easy it is to make your own pom-poms and you will save a bunch of money too, especially if you take advantage of Hobby Lobby or Joann Fabrics 40% off coupons!

Skill Level: Easy

Finished Size: Approx. 4"

Supplies:

Faux Fur Fabric (9" x 9" piece, unless you would like a larger pom-pom)

Scissors or X-acto knife

Tapestry Needle

Tape Measure

CD or similar round object (optional)

Poly-fil (optional)

Yarn (approx. 1 yard per pom-pom)

Step 1: 

Select your desired faux fur!

Step 2: 

With the fur side down, lay your fur on a flat surface. This is best done outside depending on the fur your chose, it can get pretty messy.

Using the CD as a guide, mark 8 inches horizontally and vertically. 

 Step 3: 

Using the lines you marked, join them and draw a circle. It does not need to be a perfect circle. As you can see, mine isn't!

 

Step 4:

Cut the circle out. I found the X-acto knife works best for this, you will lose less fur. Set aside your fur scraps. 

Step 5:

With your tapestry needle and yarn use the basting stitch to work around the entire circle.

Step 6:

Now, place the fur scraps (or poly-fil) in the center of the circle. 

Step 7: 

Gently pull both ends of the yarn to close your pom-pom. 

Step 8:

Use the tapestry needle sew the rest of the opening shut & knot the two ends together.

Ta-da! All done and ready to be attached to your favorite crochet or knit beanie!

Free Crochet Pattern: Pizza Pot Holder

I have a fun new pattern to share today and if you're wondering - Yes, we're pretty pizza obsessed in this household (and this isn't our last pizza idea either)! Please only use 100% cotton yarn for this project if you are planning on using it for it's intended purpose.

If you have any questions please feel free to ask below or send me a message on facebook here: facebook.com/byjennidesigns

Thanks for stopping by!

-Jenni

Skill Level: Easy

Finished Size: 9" x 9"
          Note: For a smaller pot holder go down a hook size or two.

Supplies:
Size I (5.5 mm) Crochet Hook
Worsted Weight 100% Cotton Yarn
          Taupe (75 yd.)
          Yellow (75 yd.)
          Red (12 yd.) (3 yd./pepperoni)
          Green (2 yd./pepper)
          White (2.5 yd./mushroom)
Tapestry Needle
Scissors
Stitch Marker

Abbreviations (US Terms):
BLO - Back Loop Only
Ch - Chain
Hdc - Half Double Crochet
Sc - Single Crochet
Sl st - Slip Stitch
Sp - Space

Important Note:
-Stitches placed in these brackets [ ] indicate a group of stitches that should all be worked into the same space.

Gauge:
Approx. 8 hdc x 6 rows = 2"

Cheese/Sauce

Note: The side facing you as you crochet is the Right Side.

Using Yellow:
Round 1: Magic circle, ch 1, 9 sc in circle. Pull circle tight, do not join. (9)

Place a stitch marker in the last sc made.

Round 2: [Sc, hdc] in very first sc made. 2 hdc in next and in each around. (18)

Move stitch marker to last hdc made and continue to move to the last stitch of each round to help you keep track of rounds.

Round 3: *Hdc in next, 2 hdc in next.* Repeat *to* around. (27)
Round 4: *Hdc in 2, 2 hdc in next.* Repeat *to* around. (36)
Round 5: *Hdc in 3, 2 hdc in next.* Repeat *to* around. (45)
Round 6: *Hdc in 4, 2 hdc in next.* Repeat *to* around. (54)
Round 7: *2 hdc in next, hdc in 5.* Repeat *to* around. (63)
Round 8: *2 hdc in next, hdc in 6.* Repeat *to* around. (72)
Round 9: *2 hdc in next, hdc in 7.* Repeat *to* around. (81)
Round 10: *2 hdc in next, hdc in 8.* Repeat *to* around. (90)
Round 11: *2 hdc in next, hdc in 9.* Repeat *to* 7 more times. 2 hdc in next, hdc in 7, sc in next, sl st in last. (99)

Leave stitch marker in last sl st made.

Fasten off.

Using Red:

Join with a sl st to the space indicated to leave your stitch marker in.
Round 12: Ch 1, 2 hdc in same sp. Hdc in 10. *2 hdc in next, hdc in 10.* Repeat *to* around. Join with a sl st. (108)

Fasten off & sew in ends.

Set aside and make the crust below.

Crust

Note: The side facing you as you crochet is the Right Side.

Using Tan:
Round 1: Magic circle, ch 1, 9 sc in circle. Pull circle tight, do not join. (9)

Place a stitch marker in the last sc made.

Round 2: [Sc, hdc] in very first sc made. 2 hdc in next and in each around. (18)

Move stitch marker to last hdc made and continue to move to the last stitch of each round to help you keep track of rounds.

Round 3: *Hdc in next, 2 hdc in next.* Repeat *to* around. (27)
Round 4: *Hdc in 2, 2 hdc in next.* Repeat *to* around. (36)
Round 5: *Hdc in 3, 2 hdc in next.* Repeat *to* around. (45)
Round 6: *Hdc in 4, 2 hdc in next.* Repeat *to* around. (54)
Round 7: *2 hdc in next, hdc in 5.* Repeat *to* around. (63)
Round 8: *2 hdc in next, hdc in 6.* Repeat *to* around. (72)
Round 9: *2 hdc in next, hdc in 7.* Repeat *to* around. (81)
Round 10: *2 hdc in next, hdc in 8.* Repeat *to* around. (90)
Round 11: *2 hdc in next, hdc in 9.* Repeat *to* around. (99)
Round 12: *2 hdc in next, hdc in 10.* Repeat *to* 7 more times. 2 hdc in next, hdc in 8, sc in next, sl st in last. (108)

Fasten off & sew in ends.

Set aside and continue on below with your desired toppings.

Pepperoni

Using Red:
Row 1: Magic circle, ch 1, 8 hdc in circle. Join with sl st. (8)
Row 2: Ch 1, 2 hdc in same and in each around. Join with sl st. (16)

Fasten off  leaving a long end for sewing.

Green Pepper Slice

Using Green:
Row 1: Ch 16, sc in 2nd ch from hook. 3 sc in next, sc in 11, 3 sc in next, sc in last.

Fasten off leaving a long end for sewing.
Do not sew in ends yet.

Small Mushroom

Using White:
Row 1: Ch 4, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next, 4 sc in next. Rotate piece to the right so you can work on the opposite side of foundation chain. Sc in next, 2 sc in last. Join with sl st to first sc.
Row 2: Sl st in next sp, [sl st, ch 2, dc, ch 2, sl st] in next.

Fasten off leaving a long end for sewing.
Do not sew in ends yet.

Large Mushroom

Using White:
Row 1: Ch 6, 2 hdc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in 3, 4 hdc in next. Rotate piece to the right so you can work on the opposite side of foundation chain. Hdc in next 3, 2 hdc in last. Join with sl st to first hdc.
Row 2: Sl st in next 2 sp, [sl st, ch 2, dc] in next, [dc, ch 2, sl st] in next.

Fasten off leaving a long end for sewing.
Do not sew in ends yet.


Finishing

When you have finished all your desired toppings, sew them to the cheese/sauce piece.
Sew in ends.

Next, you need to crochet together the crust & the cheese/sauce. To do so, hold the Crust & the Cheese/Sauce with the wrong sides facing each other.

Using Tan:

With the cheese/sauce facing you, join yarn with a sl st in any space. Keep in mind, your pot holder hanger will be worked in this space at the end of the row.

Make sure you are working through all 4 loops as you go.

Ch 1, sc in same and in each sp around. Join with sl st. Turn so the crust side is facing you. [Ch 8, sl st to the open sp to the left], Ch 1, turn, work 14 sc over the ch, sl st into the same sp as the ch 8.

 Fasten off and sew in ends, I like to use one of the ends to help make sure the loop isn't too floppy by sewing through the 1st & 14th stitches in the loop and then I sew the end up into the loop.

Free Crochet Pattern: Chunky Pizza Throw Blanket

I've been working on this one for some time now, my youngest son requested a pizza blanket months ago and I finally have it finished! This pattern is worked in the round to avoid a visible seam but if you would like to join at the end of each row you may do that instead. For this project you'll need to hold together 2 strands of worsted weight yarn, the pattern has only been tested in this way but you are free to give a Bulky 6 yarn a try too! 

I would love to see your finished blankets! If you want to share a photo feel free to share on my facebook here: facebook.com/byjennidesigns, tag me on IG @byjennidesigns or add as a project on Ravelry here: Pizza Throw

Thanks so much for stopping by!

-Jenni Catavu

Skill Level: Easy/Intermediate

Size: 55" in diameter

Supplies:
Size N/P (10.0 mm) Crochet Hook
Caron One Pound Worsted Weight Yarn in the following colors:
            -Sunflower, approx. 2000 yd.
            -Lace (taupe), approx. 625 yd.
            -Kelly Green, 9 yd./pepper slice
Red Heart Super Saver Worsted Weight Yarn
           -Cherry Red, approx. 105 yd.
                        10 yd./pepperoni
                        35 yd./bacon slice
           -Black, 6 yd./olive
           -White, 12 yd./mushroom
                         12 yd./onion
           -Aran, 8 yd./bacon slice
Tapestry Needle
Scissors
Stitch Marker

Abbreviations (US Terms):
BLO - Back Loop Only
Ch - Chain
Dc - Double Crochet
Hdc - Half Double Crochet
Sc - Single Crochet
Sc2tog - Single Crochet 2 Together
Sc3tog - Single Crochet 3 Together
Sk - Skip
Sl St - Slip Stitch
Sp - Space
YO - Yarn Over

Stitch Explanation:

Sc2tog - Insert hook into 1st sp, YO & pull up a loop. Insert hook into 2nd sp, YO & pull up a loop. YO & pull through all loops on hook.

Sc3tog - Insert hook into 1st sp, YO & pull up a loop. Insert hook into 2nd sp, YO & pull up a loop. Insert hook into 3rd sp, YO & pull up a loop. YO & pull through all loops on hook.

Crab Stitch aka Reverse Single Crochet - Explanation written below within the pattern (with photos).

Important Notes:
-Stitches placed between these brackets [ ] indicate a group of stitches that all need to be worked into the same space.
-Joins are made with a sl st.

Gauge: 8 dc & 5 rows = approx. 4"

Blanket

With Sunflower, holding 2 strands together:

Round 1: Magic circle, ch 1, 10 sc in circle. Pull circle tight, do not join. (10)

Place a stitch marker in the last sc made.

Round 2: [Sc, hdc] in very first sc made. [hdc, dc] in next. 2 dc in next and in each remaining sp around. (20)

Move stitch marker to last dc made and continue to move it to the last stitch of each round to help you keep track of your rounds.

Round 3: *2 dc in next, dc in next.* Repeat *to* around. (30)
Round 4: *2 dc in next, dc in 2.* Repeat *to* around. (40)
Round 5: *2 dc in next, dc in 3.* Repeat *to* around. (50)
Round 6: *2 dc in next, dc in 4.* Repeat *to* around. (60)
Round 7: *2 dc in next, dc in 5.* Repeat *to* around. (70)
Round 8: *2 dc in next, dc in 6.* Repeat *to* around. (80)
Round 9: *2 dc in next, dc in 7.* Repeat *to* around. (90)
Round 10: *2 dc in next, dc in 8.* Repeat *to* around. (100)
Round 11: *2 dc in next, dc in 9.* Repeat *to* around. (110)
Round 12: *2 dc in next, dc in 10.* Repeat *to* around. (120)
Round 13: *2 dc in next, dc in 11.* Repeat *to* around. (130)
Round 14: *2 dc in next, dc in 12.* Repeat *to* around. (140)
Round 15: *2 dc in next, dc in 13.* Repeat *to* around. (150)
Round 16: *2 dc in next, dc in 14.* Repeat *to* around. (160)
Round 17: *2 dc in next, dc in 15.* Repeat *to* around. (170)
Round 18: *2 dc in next, dc in 16.* Repeat *to* around. (180)
Round 19: *2 dc in next, dc in 17.* Repeat *to* around. (190)
Round 20: *2 dc in next, dc in 18.* Repeat *to* around. (200)
Round 21: *2 dc in next, dc in 19.* Repeat *to* around. (210)
Round 22: Dc in 10. *2 dc in next, dc in 20.* Repeat *to* until you have 11 sp left. 2 dc in next, dc in 10. (220)
Round 23: *2 dc in next, dc in 21.* Repeat *to* around. (230)
Round 24: Dc in 11. *2 dc in next, dc in 22.* Repeat *to* until you have 12 sp left. 2 dc in next, dc in 11. (240)
Round 25: *2 dc in next, dc in 23.* Repeat *to* around. (250)
Round 26: Dc in 12. *2 dc in next, dc in 24.* Repeat *to* until you have 13 sp left. 2 dc in next, dc in 12. (260)
Round 27: *2 dc in next, dc in 25.* Repeat *to* around. (270)
Round 28: Dc in 13. *2 dc in next, dc in 26.* Repeat *to* until you have 14 sp left. 2 dc in next, dc in 13. (280)
Round 29: *2 dc in next, dc in 27.* Repeat *to* around. (290)
Round 30: Dc in 14. *2 dc in next, dc in 28.* Repeat *to* until you have 15 sp left. 2 dc in next, dc in 11, hdc in next, sc in next, sl st in last. (300)

Fasten off.

With Cherry Red, holding 2 strands together:

Round 31: In BLO: Join with a sl st in any sp, ch 1, 2 hdc in same sp. Hdc in 29. *2 hdc in next, hdc in 29.* Repeat *to* around. Join with a sl st. (310)

Fasten off.

With Lace, holding 2 strands together:

Round 32: In BLO: Join with a sl st in any sp, ch 1, sc in same sp. [Hdc, dc] in next, dc in next 30. *2 dc in next, dc in 30.* Repeat *to* around until you have 30 sp left. 2 dc in next, dc in next 29. (320)

Place a stitch marker in the last dc made.

Round 33: [Sc, hdc] in next, dc in next 31. *2 dc in next, dc in 31.* Repeat *to* around. (330)

Move stitch marker to last dc made and continue to move it to the last stitch of each round to help you keep track of your rounds.

Round 34: Dc in next 16. *2 dc in next, dc in 32.* Repeat *to* around until you have 16 sp left. 2 dc in next, dc in 13, hdc in next, sc in next, sl st in last. (340)

For the final round of the crust you need to work the crab stitch around the entire edge. To do so, Ch 1, sc in first sp to the right. Sc in next sp to the right and in each around.

(click to enlarge)

Join, fasten off & sew in ends.

Continue on below and crochet up your desired toppings!

Pepperoni

With Red, holding 2 strands together:

Row 1: Magic circle, ch 1, 9 sc in circle. Join. (9)
Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in same and in each sp around. Join. (18)
Row 3: Ch 1, 2 sc in same, sc in next. *2 sc in next, sc in next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (27)

Fasten off leaving a long end for sewing later.

Onion Rings

With White, holding 2 strands together:

Row 1: For small onion ch 30 (for large onion ch 45), join. Ch 1, sc in same and in each sp. around. Join. Ch 1, sk 1, loosely sl st in next sp and in each remaining sp around. Join.

Fasten off leaving a long end for sewing later.

Mushrooms

With White, holding 2 strands together:

Row 1: Ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across. Work 2 additional sc in the last sp, rotate piece to the right so you can work on the opposite side of the foundation chain. Sc in next 3 sp, 2 sc in last. Join to first sc. (12)

Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in same and in each sp around. Join. (24)

Row 3: Sk first sp, loosely sl st in next 4. [Sl st, ch 2, dc] in next, 2 dc in next. Ch 2, turn.

Row 4: Dc in same and in next. [Dc, ch 2, sl st] in last. 

Fasten off leaving a long end for sewing later. 

Black Olives

With Black, holding 2 strands together:

Row 1: Ch 12, join. Ch 1, sc in same and in each sp. around. Join. Ch 1, sk 1, loosely sl st in next sp and in each remaining sp around. Join.

Fasten off leaving a long end for sewing later.

Green Pepper Strip

With Kelly Green, holding 2 strands together:

Variation 1:
Row 1: Ch 30, sc in 2nd ch from hook, 3 sc in next, sc in 10, sl st in next, sk 3, sl st in next, sc in 10, 3 sc in next, sc in last.

Fasten off leaving a long end for sewing later.

Variation 2:
Row 1: Ch 30, sc in 2nd ch from hook, 3 sc in next, sc in 25, 3 sc in next, sc in last.

Fasten off leaving a long end for sewing later.

Bacon

With Red, holding 2 strands together:

Row 1: Ch 34, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 3. 3 sc in next, sc in 4. *Sc3tog, sc in 4, 3 sc in next, sc in 4.* Repeat *to* one time. Ch 1, turn.
Row 2: Starting in same sp as the ch 1: Sc2tog, sc in 3, 3 sc in next, sc in 4. Sc3tog, sc in 4, 3 sc in next, sc in 4. Sc3tog, sc in 4, 3 sc in next, sc in 3, sc2tog.

Fasten off.

With Aran, holding 2 strands together:

Row 3: Starting in same sp as the ch 1: Sc2tog, sc in 3, 3 sc in next, sc in 4. Sc3tog, sc in 4, 3 sc in next, sc in 4. Sc3tog, sc in 4, 3 sc in next, sc in 3, sc2tog.

Fasten off.

With Red, holding 2 strands together:

Row 4: Starting in same sp as the ch 1: Sc2tog, sc in 3, 3 sc in next, sc in 4. Sc3tog, sc in 4, 3 sc in next, sc in 4. Sc3tog, sc in 4, 3 sc in next, sc in 3, sc2tog.
Row 5: Starting in same sp as the ch 1: Sc2tog, sc in 3, 3 sc in next, sc in 4. Sc3tog, sc in 4, 3 sc in next, sc in 4. Sc3tog, sc in 4, 3 sc in next, sc in 3, sc2tog.

Fasten off leaving a long end for sewing later.

Note: When sewing bacon onto blanket later if you would like it to keep it's rippled look, pinch together the points as you sew around and work a couple stitches through the piece of bacon to make it pucker a little.

When you have completed your desired toppings, start sewing them on!
Sew in all your ends and you're done!

Free Crochet Pattern: Simple Pom-Pom Scarf

(Shown in Red Heart With Love Pewter)

This very simple scarf is easily my new favorite!

If you give this project a try I would LOVE to see your finished scarf, please feel free to share a photo on my facebook here: facebook.com/byjennidesigns or if you use Ravelry you can upload as a project here: ravelry.com/patterns/library/simple-pom-pom-scarf

Thanks so much for stopping by!

-Jenni

Skill Level: Easy

Size: Women's, 7.75" x 70" (measurements taken with 5" pom-poms attached)

Supplies:
Size I (5.50 mm) Crochet Hook 
Red Heart With Love Yarn, approx. 350-370 yards
2, 4-5" Faux Fur Pom-Pom's 
Tapestry Needle
Scissors

Abbreviations (US Terms):
Ch - Chain
Hdc - Half Double Crochet
Hdc2tog - Half Double Crochet 2 Together
Sp - Space

Gauge: 4 dc & 3 rows = 1"

Row 1: Ch 2, hdc in 2nd ch from hook. Ch 1, turn. (1)
Row 2: 2 hdc in same sp as ch 1. Ch 1, turn. (2)
Row 3: Hdc in each sp across. Ch 1, turn. (2)
Row 4: 2 hdc in first and in next. Ch 1, turn. (4)
Row 5: Hdc in each sp across. Ch 1, turn. (4)
Row 6: 2 hdc in first, hdc in 2, 2 hdc in last. Ch 1, turn. (6)
Row 7: Hdc in each sp across. Ch 1, turn. (6)
Row 8: 2 hdc in first, hdc in 4, 2 hdc in last. Ch 1, turn. (8)
Row 9: Hdc in each sp across. Ch 1, turn. (8)
Row 10: 2 hdc in first, hdc in 6, 2 hdc in last. Ch 1, turn. (10)
Row 11: Hdc in each sp across. Ch 1, turn. (10)
Row 12: 2 hdc in first, hdc in 8, 2 hdc in last. Ch 1, turn. (12)
Row 13: Hdc in each sp across. Ch 1, turn. (12)
Row 14: 2 hdc in first, hdc in 10, 2 hdc in last. Ch 1, turn. (14)
Row 15: Hdc in each sp across. Ch 1, turn. (14)
Row 16: 2 hdc in first, hdc in 12, 2 hdc in last. Ch 1, turn. (16)
Row 17: Hdc in each sp across. Ch 1, turn. (16)
Row 18: 2 hdc in first, hdc in 14, 2 hdc in last. Ch 1, turn. (18)
Row 19: Hdc in each sp across. Ch 1, turn. (18)
Row 20: 2 hdc in first, hdc in 16, 2 hdc in last. Ch 1, turn. (20)
Row 21: Hdc in each sp across. Ch 1, turn. (20)
Row 22: 2 hdc in first, hdc in 18, 2 hdc in last. Ch 1, turn. (22)
Row 23: Hdc in each sp across. Ch 1, turn. (22)
Row 24: 2 hdc in first, hdc in 20, 2 hdc in last. Ch 1, turn. (24)
Row 25: Hdc in each sp across. Ch 1, turn. (24)
Row 26: 2 hdc in first, hdc in 22, 2 hdc in last. Ch 1, turn. (26)
Row 27: Hdc in each sp across. Ch 1, turn. (26)
Row 28: 2 hdc in first, hdc in 24, 2 hdc in last. Ch 1, turn. (28)
Row 29-159: Hdc in each sp across. Ch 1, turn. (28)
Row 160: Hdc2tog, hdc in 24, hdc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (26)
Row 161: Hdc in each sp across. Ch 1, turn. (26)
Row 162: Hdc2tog, hdc in 22, hdc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (24)
Row 163: Hdc in each sp across. Ch 1, turn. (24)
Row 164: Hdc2tog, hdc in 20, hdc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (22)
Row 165: Hdc in each sp across. Ch 1, turn. (22)
Row 166: Hdc2tog, hdc in 18, hdc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (20)
Row 167: Hdc in each sp across. Ch 1, turn. (20)
Row 168: Hdc2tog, hdc in 16, hdc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (18)
Row 169: Hdc in each sp across. Ch 1, turn. (18)
Row 170: Hdc2tog, hdc in 14, hdc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (16)
Row 171: Hdc in each sp across. Ch 1, turn. (16)
Row 172: Hdc2tog, hdc in 12, hdc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (14)
Row 173: Hdc in each sp across. Ch 1, turn. (14)
Row 174: Hdc2tog, hdc in 10, hdc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (12)
Row 175: Hdc in each sp across. Ch 1, turn. (12)
Row 176: Hdc2tog, hdc in 8, hdc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (10)
Row 177: Hdc in each sp across. Ch 1, turn. (10)
Row 178: Hdc2tog, hdc in 6, hdc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (8)
Row 179: Hdc in each sp across. Ch 1, turn. (8)
Row 180: Hdc2tog, hdc in 4, hdc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (6)
Row 181: Hdc in each sp across. Ch 1, turn. (6)
Row 182: Hdc2tog, hdc in 2, hdc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (4)
Row 183: Hdc in each sp across. Ch 1, turn. (4)
Row 184: Hdc2tog, hdc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (2)
Row 185: Hdc in each sp across. Ch 1, turn. (2)
Row 186: Hdc2tog. (1)
Fasten off.

Attach pom-pom of your choosing & sew in ends!

Free Crochet Pattern with video tutorial: Textured & Ribbed Fingerless Gloves

Hello & thanks so much for stopping by! 

These last couple of weeks I've been re-writing a past scarf pattern and I've worked up these fingerless gloves to match it. I will add links at the end of this pattern for said scarf and the new matching ear warmer too! Please be sure to read through all the important notes listed below before starting.

 

Above are a couple extra photos showing the backside of the glove and then the seam, clicking the image will enlarge it. 

This pattern now has a video tutorial, you can watch below or here on youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KBxNNEahPS0

Skill Level: Intermediate

Size: Teen/Women's
As a guide my wrists measure 6" (left) & 6.25" (right) and the measurement taken at the top of my hand and around the knuckles is 7.5" (left) 7.75" (right). These gloves have some stretch and will definitely fit a hand/wrist a little larger. I suggest wrapping the foundation chain around your wrist to help determine if these will work for you.

Supplies:
Size I (5.5 mm) Crochet Hook
Red Heart With Love Yarn, approx. 200 yards
Darning Needle
Scissors
Stitch Marker

Abbreviations (US Terms):
BLO – Back Loop Only
Bpdc - Back Post Double Crochet
Ch – Chain
Dc – Double Crochet
Dc2tog - Double Crochet 2 Together
3LO - 3rd Loop Only
Fpdc – Front Post Double Crochet
Ss – Slip Stitch
St - Stitch

Stitch Explanation:
3rd Loop Only - The third loop is located on the back of the dc, just under the back loop. Please see the photo below:

Important Notes:
-Ch 1's & 2's DO NOT count as a dc & you should join to the 1st dc of each row, not the chain.
-All joins are made with a ss.
-Stitches placed between these brackets: [ ] indicate a group of stitches to all be worked into the same stitch.

Gauge: 7 dc & 4 rows = 2"


Gloves:
(make 2)

Row 1: Ch 27, join to the first ch with a ss making sure not to twist the chain. Ch 2, dc in each st around. Join. (27 dc)
Row 2: Ch 2, fpdc in the first dc from row 1. *Bpdc in next, Fpdc in next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (14 fpdc, 13 bpdc)
Row 3-5: Ch 2, fpdc in next. *Bpdc in next, Fpdc in next.* Repeat from *to* around. Join. (14 fpdc, 13 bpdc)
Row 6: In BLO: Ch 1, dc in each st around. Join. (27 dc)
Row 7: In 3LO: Ch 1, dc in each st around. Join. (27 dc)
Row 8: In BLO: Ch 1, dc in each st around. Join. (27 dc)
Row 9: In 3LO: Ch 1, dc in each st around. Join. (27 dc)
Row 10: In BLO: Ch 1, 2 dc in first st. Dc in 13 st, 2 dc in next st, dc in 12 st. Join. (29 dc)
Row 11: In 3LO: Ch 1, dc in 13 st. 2 dc in next st, dc in 14 st, 2 dc in last st. Join. (31 dc)
Row 12: In BLO: Ss in first 2 st. Place a stitch marker in the first ss made, leave stitch marker until later. [Ss, ch 1, dc] in next st. Dc in next 26 st, leave last 2 st un-worked. (27 dc)
Row 13: Ch 1, turn. Working in what would be the 3rd loop from the opposite side: Dc in each st around. Ch 4, join. (27 dc)
Row 14: Ch 1, turn. Work 6 dc over the ch 4. In BLO: Dc in 12 st, dc2tog, dc in 11 st, dc2tog. Join. (31 dc)
Row 15: In 3LO: Ch 1, dc in 2 st. Dc2tog, dc in 13 st, dc2tog, dc in 12 st. (29 dc)
Row 16: In BLO: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (29 sc)

Fasten off and sew in ends.


Thumb Hole: 
Join yarn in the st previously indicated to leave a stitch marker (remove stitch marker). Sc around working 5 sc along each side of opening.

Fasten off & sew in ends.

These fingerless gloves have matching scarf & ear warmer patterns, 

you can find the infinity scarf here:

Textured & Ribbed Infinity Scarf

and the Ear Warmer pattern here:

Women's Textured & Ribbed Ear Warmer

Free Crochet Pattern: Textured & Ribbed Infinity Scarf

(Shown in Red Heart With Love Cameo, I've only been able to find this particular color at Walmart stores)

Hello all! 

I am pretty excited to share this pattern, it may look familiar as it's a re-make of my Textured Infinity Scarf. I noticed the old pattern tends to curl a little because of how the ribbing is worked and I've found a way to fix that issue! I also changed up the texture a little & I hope this new pattern is as well liked as the previous pattern. 

Thanks so much for stopping by!

-Jenni

Skill Level: Easy/Intermediate

Size: Teen/Women's, 6.75" wide & approx. 51" in circumference

Supplies:
Size K (6.50 mm) Crochet Hook
Red Heart With Love Yarn, approx. 300 yds.
Tapestry Needle
Scissors

Abbreviations (US Terms):
BLO – Back Loop Only
Bpdc - Back Post Double Crochet
Ch – Chain
Dc – Double Crochet
3LO - 3rd Loop Only
Fpdc – Front Post Double Crochet
Sl st – Slip Stitch
Sp - Space

Stitch Explanation:
3rd Loop Only - The third loop is located on the back of the dc, just under the back loop. Please see the photo below:

Important Notes:
-Ch 1's & 2's DO NOT count as a dc & you should join to the 1st dc of each row, not the chain.
-All joins are made with a sl st.

Gauge: 6 dc x 2 rows = 2”


Row 1: Ch 169, join to first ch making sure not to twist the chain. Ch 2, dc in same sp as ch 2 and in each sp around. Join. (169 dc)
Row 2: Ch 2, fpdc around the first dc of row 1. *Bpdc around next, Fpdc around next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (85 fpdc, 84 bpdc)
Row 3-4: Ch 2, Fpdc around next. *Bpdc around next, Fpdc around next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (85 fpdc, 84 bpdc)
Row 5: In BLO: Ch 1, dc in same and in each around. Join. (169 dc)
Row 6: In 3LO: Ch 1, dc in same and in each around. Join. (169 dc)
Row 7: In BLO: Ch 1, dc in same and in each around. Join. (169 dc)
Row 8: In 3LO: Ch 1, dc in same and in each around. Join. (169 dc)
Row 9: In BLO: Ch 1, dc in same and in each around. Join. (169 dc)
Row 10: In 3LO: Ch 1, dc in same and in each around. Join. (169 dc)
Row 11: In BLO: Ch 1, dc in same and in each around. Join. (169 dc)
Row 12: In 3LO: Ch 1, dc in same and in each around. Join. (169 dc)
Row 13: In BLO: Ch 1. dc in same and in each around. Join. (169 dc)
Row 14: Ch 2, fpdc around the first dc from row 13. *Bpdc around next, fpdc around next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (85 fpdc, 84 bpdc)
Row 15-16: Ch 2, fpdc around next, *Bpdc around next, fpdc around next.* Repeat from *to* around. Join. (85 fpdc, 84 bpdc)

Fasten off & sew in ends.

This scarf has a matching Ear Warmer, you can find that free pattern here: 

Women's Textured & Ribbed Ear Warmer

Free Crochet Pattern: Women's Textured & Ribbed Ear Warmer

(Shown in Red Heart With Love Cameo)

This pattern has a matching infinity scarf and you can find the free pattern here: 

Textured & Ribbed Infinity Scarf

Thanks so much for stopping by! 

-Jenni

Skill Level: Easy/Intermediate

Size: Women's, 21-22" head circumference

Supplies:
Size I (5.5 mm) Hook
Red Heart With Love Yarn, approx. 175 yards
Tapestry Needle
Scissors

Abbreviations (US Terms):
BLO - Back Loop Only
Bpdc - Back Post Double Crochet
Ch - Chain
Dc - Double Crochet
Fpdc - Front Post Double Crochet
Sl st - Slip Stitch
Sp - Space
3LO - 3rd Loop Only

Stitch Explanation:
3rd Loop Only - The third loop is located on the back of the dc, just under the back loop. Please see the photo below:

Important Notes:
-Ch 1's & 2's DO NOT count as a dc & you should join to the 1st dc of each row, not the chain.
-All joins are made with a sl st.

Gauge: Approx. 7 dc x 4 rows = 2"

Row 1: Ch 69, join to first ch making sure not to twist the chain. Ch 2, dc in same sp as ch 2 and in each sp around. Join. (69 dc)
Row 2: Ch 2, fpdc around the first dc of row 1. *Bpdc around next, Fpdc around next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (35 fpdc, 34 bpdc)
Row 3: Ch 2, Fpdc around next. *Bpdc around next, Fpdc around next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (35 fpdc, 34 bpdc)
Row 4: In BLO: Ch 1, dc in same and in each around. Join. (69 dc)
Row 5: In 3LO: Ch 1, dc in same and in each around. Join. (69 dc)
Row 6: In BLO: Ch 1, dc in same and in each around. Join. (69 dc)
Row 7: In 3LO: Ch 1, dc in same and in each around. Join. (69 dc)
Row 8: In BLO: Ch 1, dc in same and in each around. Join. (69 dc)
Row 9: Ch 2, fpdc around the first dc from row 8. *Bpdc around next, fpdc around next.* Repeat *to* around. Join. (35 fpdc, 34 bpdc)
Row 10: Ch 2, fpdc around next, *Bpdc around next, fpdc around next.* Repeat from *to* around. Join. (35 fpdc, 34 bpdc)

Fasten off & sew in ends.

Free Crochet Pattern: Toast Pot Holder

(Shown in Lily Sugar n Cream Warm Brown, Crafter's Secret Cotton Taupe & I Love This Cotton Curry)

Last week I shared with you the Sunny Side Up Egg Pot Holder and now I have the Toast Pot Holder to share as well! Both of these pot holders are made with two layers to ensure you don't burn yourself while using them and please be sure you use only 100% cotton yarn! 

If you have any questions at all feel free to ask, 

thanks so much for stopping by! 

-Jenni

Skill Level: Easy

Finished Size: 8" x 8"

Supplies:
Size H (5.0 mm) Crochet Hook
Worsted Weight 100% Cotton Yarn in Tan (120 yds.), Dark Brown (40 yds.) & Yellow (20 yds.)
Tapestry Needle
Scissors
Stitch Markers

Abbreviations (US Terms):
Ch - Chain
Dc - Double Crochet
Hdc - Half Double Crochet
Sc - Single Crochet
Sc3tog - Single Crochet 3 Together
Sl st - Slip Stitch
Sp - Space

Important Note:
-Stitches placed in these brackets [ ] indicate a group of stitches that should all be worked into the same space.

Gauge: Approx. 8 hdc x 6 rows = 2"


Bread
(make 2)

With Tan:
Row 1: Ch 28, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across. (27)
Row 2-18: Ch 1, turn. Hdc in same and in each across. (27)
Row 19: Ch 1, turn. Sc in 2, hdc in 3, dc in 3, hdc in 3, sc in 2. Sl st in next. Sc in 2, hdc in 3, dc in 3, hdc in 3, sc in 2. (27)
Row 20: Sc in 2, hdc in 3, 2 dc in each of the next 3 sp, hdc in 3, sc in 2. Sl st in next. Sc in 2, hdc in 3, 2 dc in each of the next 3 sp, hdc in 3, sc in 2. (33)
Row 21: Sl st in 2, sc in 2, hdc in 3, 2 dc in each of the next 4 sp, hdc in 3, sc in next. Sc3tog. Sc in next, hdc in 3, 2 dc in each of the next 4 sp, hdc in 3, sc in 2, sl st in 2. (39)

Fasten off.

With Dark Brown:
Join in any sp, ch 1 & sc around edge of bread working a ch 2 at the two lower corners of the bread & working a ch 1 at the top corners (see photo below).

When working along the sides work 1 sc into the side of each hdc row. Don't work your sc's too tightly or your bread may bunch a little (feel free to switch to a hook size up for this part if you can't work the sc's loosely). You should end with 21 sc along the two sides of bread, 39 sc along the top & 27 sc along the bottom.

Join, fasten off and sew in ends.


Butter
(make 1)

With Yellow:
Row 1: Ch 9, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across. (8)
Row 2-6: Ch 1, turn. Hdc in same and in each across. (8)

After row 6, ch 1, turn & sc around the entire edge of butter working a ch 2 at each corner.

Join & fasten off leaving a long end for sewing.

Sew butter onto one slice of bread.

After you have sewn your butter on, hold the two bread slices together with the butter side facing you. Join your dark brown yarn in any space and slip stitch all the way around, you will need to ch 1 at each corner.


Loop

To add a loop to your pot holder first decide where you would like the loop then turn the pot holder over and join in your chosen sp on the back of the pot holder.

Work the following into the sp you joined in: [Ch 8, sl st]. Ch 1, turn, work 14 sc over the ch, sl st into the same sp as the ch 8.

Fasten off and sew in ends.

Free Crochet Pattern: Sunny Side Up Egg Pot Holder

(Shown in I Love This Cotton Curry & Crafter's Secret Cotton White)

Want a little bread with your egg? Make it a set with my new Toast Pot Holder!

Thanks for stopping by!

-Jenni

Skill Level: Easy

Finished Size: Approx. 9" x 8"

Supplies:
Size H (5.0 mm) Crochet Hook
Worsted Weight 100% Cotton Yarn in White (135 yds.) & Yellow (25 yds.)
Tapestry Needle
Scissors
Stitch Markers

Abbreviations (US Terms):
Ch – Chain
Dc - Double Crochet
Hdc - Half Double Crochet
Sc - Single Crochet
Sl st – Slip Stitch
Sp - Space

Important Notes:
-This pattern uses a magic circle, if you don't know how to make a magic circle you can learn how with my short video tutorial here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=64O9WVJucFA&t=13s
-At the end of each row it is very important to remember to move your stitch marker to the last stitch made to help you keep track of rows.
-Stitches placed in these brackets [ ] indicate a group of stitches that should all be worked into the same space.

Gauge: 4 sc = 1"


Egg White
(make 2)

With White:
Row 1: Magic circle, ch 1, 9 sc in circle. DO NOT JOIN. (9)

Place a stitch marker in last stitch made and continue to move it to the last stitch of every row.

For this pattern you will not be joining, instead you will work in the round. To work in the round your first stitches of row 2 should be worked into the very first sc you made in row 1.

Row 2: [Sc, hdc] in first, 2 hdc in next & in each around. (18)
Row 3: *Hdc in next, 2 hdc in next.* Repeat *to* around. (27)
Row 4: *Hdc in 2, 2 hdc in next.* Repeat *to* around. (36)
Row 5: *Hdc in 3, 2 hdc in next.* Repeat *to* around. (45)
Row 6: *Hdc in 4, 2 hdc in next.* Repeat *to* around. (54)
Row 7: *Hdc in 5, 2 hdc in next.* Repeat *to* around. (63)
Row 8: 2 hdc in next. *Hdc in 10, [Hdc, dc] in next, 2 dc in next, [dc, hdc] in next.* Repeat *to* one time. Hdc in 10, 2 hdc in next, hdc in 10. [Hdc, dc] in next, 2 dc in next, [dc, hdc] in next. Hdc in 12. (74)
Row 9: 2 hdc in next. *Hdc in 13, 2 hdc in next, hdc in next, 2 hdc in next.* Repeat *to* one time. Hdc in 25, 2 hdc in next, hdc in next, 2 hdc in next, hdc in 13. (81)
Row 10: Hdc in 16, [hdc, dc] in next, 2 dc in next, [dc, hdc] in next. Hdc in 15, [hdc, dc] in next, 2 dc in next, [dc, hdc] in next. Hdc in 27, [hdc, dc] in next, 2 dc in next, [dc, hdc] in next. Hdc in 14. (90)
Row 11: *Hdc in 8, 2 hdc in next.* Repeat *to* around.(100)
Row 12: Hdc in 20, [hdc, dc] in next, 2 dc in each of the next 3 sp, [dc, hdc] in next. Hdc in 20, 2 hdc in each of the next 3 sp. *Hdc in 10, 2 hdc in next.* Repeat *to* two times. 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sp. Hdc in 15, sc in next, loosely sl st in last. (113)

Fasten off but leave the stitch marker in the sl st space.

After you have made both egg whites move on to the yolk pattern below.


Yolk
(make 1)

With Yellow:
Row 1: Magic circle, ch 1, 9 sc in circle. DO NOT JOIN. (9)

Place a stitch marker in last stitch made and continue to move it to the last stitch of every row.

For this pattern you will not be joining, instead you will work in the round. To work in the round your first stitches of row 2 should be worked into the very first sc you made in row 1.

Row 2: [Sc, hdc] in first, 2 hdc in next & in each around. (18)
Row 3: *Hdc in next, 2 hdc in next.* Repeat *to* around. (27)
Row 4: *Hdc in 2, 2 hdc in next.* Repeat *to* around. (36)
Row 5: Hdc in next, sc in next, loosely sl st in next. Leave remaining sp un-worked.
Fasten off leaving a long end for sewing.

Sew yolk to the center of one of the egg whites & sew in all the ends

Next you need to stack one egg on top of the other, lining up the stitch markers. Place the egg with the yolk on top.

Now, holding together both egg whites, with the yolk facing you: Join with a sl st in the same spaces as the stitch markers on both egg whites.

Ch 1, sc in same and in each around making sure you are working through all 4 loops. Join.

Fasten off and sew in ends.


Loop

To add a loop to your pot holder first decide where you would like the loop, if you are making 2 pot holders you may want to place your loops in different places to make the eggs look slightly different while hanging. For the pot holder I am using in this tutorial I worked in the 39th sp before the fasten off on the egg white.

Turn pot holder over and join in your chosen sp on the back of the egg. Work the following into the sp you joined in: [Ch 8, sl st]. Ch 1, turn, work 14 sc over the ch, sl st into the same sp as the ch 8.

Fasten off and sew in ends.

(click to enlarge)